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Thread: The Ultimate FC

  1. #1001
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    The Stalwart was intended to cross the rivers of Germany .( its short length helpful in climbing out of the rivers and onto the bank)
    It could travel on the open sea, but it was with risks.
    The stalwart couldn't tackle large beach breakers like a LARC or WW2 DUKW because of its very short length.( a hang over from using the Saladin armoured car chassis)
    In the British army in the mid 1960s the WW2 DUKW was due for replacement.
    A project was carried out to try a turn the Stalwart into a true sea going DUKW replacement.
    A Stalwart was fitted with a bow and stern extensions which gave it more free board and the length it needs to handle large breakers on beaches.
    The modified Stalwart after some design changes to the extensions worked better than expected and had no trouble with waves 6 to 7 feet high and shipped little water, but sealing of the cabin was not the best.
    The extensions were long and stopped the Stalwart from performing well off road on land.
    They needed to be removed quickly if the vehicle landed on to a foreign shore from the sea.
    The extensions were rigged with explosive bolts which could jettison the extensions and the stalwart backed away from them ect.
    The whole process taking a few minutes.
    Common sense prevailed again and the project was dropped due to.
    1/ Concern but the strength of the extension attachment points in larger waves than the 6 to 7 foot tested .
    2/ The need to carry the extensions in the back of the Stalwart if they were to be reused which took up all the cargo space.
    I will try and scan a poor quality copy of a photo from the book Strong, stout and sturdy.
    The Stalwart was trialed with many things including a Helicopter landing platform and transport/ tender.
    stolly add by john smith, on Flickr
    The above picture from the REME depot web site.

  2. #1002
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    From Stout, Strong and Sturdy by John L Rue
    Note the lower picture showing a swing fire missile system temporarily fitted for a truck show.

    Scan_20180708 by john smith, on Flickr

  3. #1003
    350RRC is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Bellarine Peninsula, Brackistan
    Up to page 101 for this great thread; some sort of good omen?

    Well done Ron.


  4. #1004
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Wagga Wagga
    View from about 9.45mins
    Current 83 Stage One V8 trayback
    Old 84 110 3.9V8 Army 4 speed

    IG @lewys_landrover_page

  5. #1005
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    The above Video....Landrovers, New Zealand country side and a Stalwart = Heaven
    The 9 tonnes of the stalwart and short wheel base didn't do it any favours trying to climb that hill.
    The gearbox /gearing is compromised by the lack of a low range gear set.
    If first gear is used it will crawl up without any sort of momentum.
    If Second gear is used it will travel up at a reasonable speed with a little momentum, but run out of power.
    Second to first gear change up a hill like the one on the video is not possible due to the time it takes to go across the gearbox due to the shift pattern and long throw remote gear shift linkage.

    Below is the new plate flush welded in
    DSCN1551 by john smith, on Flickr
    Below is more cancer found between some plates( every similar to what I found on the muffler side)
    DSCN1550 by john smith, on Flickr

    DSCN1552 by john smith, on Flickr

    Below is rust knocked out and ready for a new flush plate to be welded in.DSCN1554 by john smith, on Flickr

  6. #1006
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    DSCN1555 by john smith, on Flickr

    DSCN1556 by john smith, on Flickr

    DSCN1557 by john smith, on Flickr

    Below I am currently making more stainless steel strip to hold the side gate rubbers.
    The strips on the body side of the vehicle are much larger and wider that the the strips used on the doors and therefore much harder to bend.....I am having much trouble getting this bent correctly with out the stainless distorting out of shape.
    DSCN1558 by john smith, on Flickr

    As Usual I have not been able to put the time into this project which it needs.

  7. #1007
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    Been plodding away with the Stalwart still painting and cutting out rust.
    Been fitting the cooling system header tank back in and making new circulating pipes.....the old ones were steel bundy tubing corroded thin and blocked up.
    New ones made in copper pipe.
    I have found a way to make the stalwart cruise at a 100kph on road with little wear with this trailer.

    I don't know if I am going the right way in getting this trailer as I have nothing to pull it other than the Stalwart.
    It was low cost with good rubber and should be able to carry the stalwart on historic plates.
    The trailer is a bit beat up in places, but nothing I cannot fix.
    It will have to be converted to a Lunette and glad hand air fittings.
    I figure I will have to get friendly with some one who owns a ex army Mack.
    A few mods will have to be carried out to the trailer to make it suitable for the Stalwart.
    It has a tilt tray with a very low loading angle.
    If the trailer does not work out, if fixed up I should be able to turn a profit.
    I figure the trailer opens up a larger range of vehicles in the future to move the stalwart and its low deck height doesn't cause any height restrictions when carrying the stalwart.
    I did find a tilt deck trailer from a Australian M816 wreaker, but it was out of my price range and it is a much larger piece of equipment again.
    This little white tilt trailer should do the job.
    On the old rego papers its gross is 20 tonnes.....the running gear on it is very heavy duty.
    New stalwart header tank pipes by john smith, on Flickr
    trailer to transport Stalwart by john smith, on Flickr

    trailer to transport stalwart by john smith, on Flickr

    trailer to transport Stalwart. by john smith, on Flickr

  8. #1008
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    I for got to mention for the Stalwart ,all the hull rubber side and rear door seal retaining strips have been correctly bent in stainless steel and finished after much tribulation in getting it all shaped correctly.

    ramps by john smith, on Flickr

    Tilt tray lock down screw by john smith, on Flickr

    Trailer to transport Stalwart. by john smith, on Flickr
    DSCN1020 by john smith, on Flickr
    Walking beam with leaf spring inside. by john smith, on Flickr

    On the above see the pivot for the boggie and the other one up and to the right a bit for the tray.
    I first though it was walking beam only with no suspension, but the spring leafs are in side the rocker.
    The tilt is by gravity and is locked down with a screw wheel at the front of the tray.....the stalwart doesn't need the tilt tray at all, but the feature may come in handy if I decide to want to place it on full time rego and move forklifts with it or winch on other dead vehicles .

    How much are those army Macks selling for ?????????????

    A coat of army green paint will have to be applied as well.

  9. #1009
    Join Date
    Sep 2018

    New to me stalwart

    @Ron 101

    Hi Ron,

    I recently purchased an Alvis Stalwart II with crane. I have owned many Pinzgauers and Unimogs. However this thing is a beast. I am feeling a lot over whelmed, to say the least. The truck has not been run for some time. Not sure were to start. It is rust free, so that is the good news! Can you give me any advice of things to do/check before even turning the engine over. should pour lubricant down the cylinders and let it set for a week or so, for starters? Any info that you can share of things you might have wished you had done prior to jumping in?

    Thank you


  10. #1010
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Nowra NSW
    The B81 is a tough old motor.
    Do basic checks
    Will the motor turn over by hand.
    Will it turn over on the starter motor.
    Does it have compression( if not does it have stuck valves)
    Will fresh petrol pump though from the fuel tank if using the hand primer on the fuel pump.
    Remove a spark plug and crank over the motor......does it have spark.

    If you have compression , fuel and spark these motors will run one way or another they not in a high state of tune.

    things to note
    Check the engine oil on the dip stick at the dry sump tank towards the rear of the crane......if the vehicle has been sitting for a long time the oil in it may have drained into the engine crankcase and over filled that causing great clouds of smoke on start up......don't top up the dry sump tank all the way until the motor has run for a little while as if you do the crankcase will pump its self dry as it suppose to do and the engine oil tank will over fill and flood the hull with engine oil.

    If not run for a long time, the petrol in the vehicle will be stale.....may be best to run the motor from a jerrycan , best place to tap into the fuel lines is at the fuel filter on the left side of the crane or at the fuel pump.

    The ignition points will need a clean with a file if the motor has been sitting for a long time....clean points and ensure they have a not change ignition point settings as the timing of the motor will changed in a way that takes a lot of work to sort out.
    With points ignition spark is weak and orange, sparkplugs must be new or in perfect condition......fuelled or carbon on the plugs equals no spark when trying to run.

    A little bit of aero start/ ether down the throat of the carby may help to waken the motor up while cranking .

    If you need to by pass the wiring from the cabin for the ignition and starter look for a round alloy junction box in the motor.
    It is located above the fuel pump on the LHS of the vehicle near the manifold....its round and has a cover with many nuts on the cover which you need a 7/16 spanner .
    Inside you will find a wiring junction for the starter solenoid and ignition coil power supply wiring.
    The junction box has Two resistors in side of it......normal running the ignition coil gets 12 volts.
    When cranking the ignition coil gets 24 volts as a spark boost.

    To access the ignition points......low down either side of the distributor you will find Two nuts that will need a 7/16 spanner, back these off and move the clamps away and split the distributor and you will find the points.
    The distributor looks different, but is a normal sort of design when the bottom of it is opened up.

    The distributor cap and rotor button may be worth a look for cracks and dirt.

    If you do get the motor running, it may sound like a big end is on the way out....its a very normal sound, its the air compressor.....the 6 foot long drive shaft rings with the compressor piston going over centre a low revs.
    It will disappear at high revs or when the air has built up.

    It took me about 2 weeks of crawling over the vehicle to get a idea how most of it works and now 6 years later I am still learning but different features of the vehicle.

    I takes a little while but you will get your head around it all .there is a lot of it and It is a bit different but with time is mastered and you will be master of the machine.

    Two brass drain plugs under the hull is to drain water.
    Two steel round access plates under the is to drain the dry sump tank and the other is to drain the petrol tank.

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