Thread: The Ultimate FC

Sounds like important work.
Might have to get a new digital camera for that one.

I do love the Stolly!! A lot of work to keep them up and running, but what a piece of kit!

its a mk 11 stalwart hmlc (high mobility load carrier) rolls royce b81 engine. the clutch is fitted with life washers, should be 100 thou on a new clutch, they could be removed 50 thou at a time to extend the life of the clutch. next to the clutch pedal should be a small metal catch which could be swun accross to keep the clutch pedal down. this was to allow the clutch plate to dry out if it got wet without it sticking to the flywheel.the diffs are no spin diffs.DO NOT TRY TO CANGE GEAR GOING AROUND CORNERS. the diffs dont like this and the whole wagon will jump around. the two airpacks under the back decks mean the brake calipers get 6000psi when you brake.we used to brake test them by seeing if 4 wheels came off the ground on heavy braking !! thats a real laugh if your in 5th gear reverse!!!!
be carefull with the crane ,only the reme variant had check valve in the hydraulics to stop the crane creeping under load.
i used to have one off these as a fitter truck and had a fantastic time using it.
have fun

Re the radio set...
P400-P409 Clansman or 353, if you want one let me know......

Peewee...
If you can think of some other gems it would be very welcomed.
The vehicle will come with the drivers book, but nothing else.
I have been talking to a friend who once owned a Saladin and he has given me a few of his experences...( but the stolly is a bit different again)
I have driven a ferret and know a little bit about the drive train issuses.
Was the hub reductions a big wear or service issue ?
Was sealing between the tracta joints and the hull /hub / brakes a problem ?
Any other driving hints ?
I will need to drive it off a semi trailer when it arrives and have no idea where the forward/revese lever is or any of the other controls other than the parking brake is a continous rachet on affair on the leftside of the driver.
Now that I know the brakes are air over hydraulic , I assume air will need to be built up too.
Thanks in advance.
ron

So the military vehicle collector in Wagga didn't take up the option of buying it ? Strange, as apparently he has an example of just about every other military vehicle produced. Anyway glad it's going to someone who will at least let it be seen by the general public.
I believe it is the 90 degree bevel boxe wheel drive units, just inside the hull that suffered from transmission wind up, not the planetary hub reductions. Ron, ask Anthony to give you Richard Watton in the UK contact details. He modified his own Stollie for general road use by making pneumatic disconnects either side of the middle axle ''T Drive'' bevel boxes. Flicking an air switch is a lot faster, less messy and expensive than removing the gears from 4 hubs every time you transition from road to cross country
wagoo.

ron. it`s been a few years since i drove one but as far as i remenber the forward and reverse lever is on the drivers left, gear lever on the right.battery master switch up behind the drivers right ear.choke was on the right side of the dash. the dash also has a button for checking engine oil leval before starting the engine(so you didnt have to lift the engine decks to do it) i think it used the gauge on the bottom left of the dash when the button was pushed , when released the gauge did its normal reading (temp ?) when changing gear you would have to turn the steering wheel when on and off the clutch to keep it in a straight line which is very easy to get used to.
the seals between the hub assy and the hull was a cork band, didnt cause us any trouble but the army had stopped swimming them when i drove mine.
if your driving on a hard surface its best to get rid of any wind up by driving over a high kerb or something similar every 10 or 20 kms .no need to slow down the suspension is awesome, just get the truck to jump a bit. there should be white lines painted on the hub end caps and they should all be lined up.if one is out off line it indicates a breakage in the drive to that wheel. also on the drive train the tyres should all have the same circumference to within two inches to help minimise wind up.
i will have a dig around and see if i have my book from when i did my trade training on the stolly.

It would be interesting to see if a cop would allow a civilian to get away with jumping a curb every now and again. Especialy on the wrong side of the road when trying to releive windup stress between the right hand side bevel boxes. Built in hydraulic jacks to quickly lift the wheels clear of the road like on some of the 1940s Woleslys could be the go. Or attach hydraulically operated levers to the suspension torsion bars to individually lift each wheel off the ground to let it unwind.With a high speed pump and a bit of practice you could make this 8 ton monster do a 6 wheel tap dance.
I think I'll stop now and find my medication.
Wagoo.