Thread: The Ultimate FC

Not too much has been going on.
After doing the heater hoses I though I would follow though while I was at it and do all the cooling system hoses.
It was a bit of work, but not too much.
All hose clamps are now stainless steel.
The copper and steel cooling system pipes are in as new condition inside reconfirming this vehicle has seen little work.
The cooling system has a large hull width radiator at the rear and Two engine driven cooling fans.
I have learnt the engine will run OK without the header tank connected or full.
The header tank is located up high under the tool box and is in area I will get to at a later date.
Curculation though the header tank is done via venturi on the bottom radiator hose and the whole system is self bleeding.
All the pipes though out have a small part number plate soldered to them, even the smallest handmade item.
The following is the view though rear with plate removed.

The items below the altenater are trailer brake relay valve and a check valve with stop light switch.
This area at the extreme rear of the hull has been cleaned up and repainted.
The above pics should answer Wagoo if the engine and transmission is hard bolted.
These pics below is some of the pipes cleaned up

The bilge pump lives in the area at the rear of the motor and on the RHS of the hull.
So I made a stainless steel strainer for the bilge pump I purchased from the UK and have no idea what the standard one looked like.
I now know it should have been square instead of round.

I found somemore rust holes in the rear upper body work just to keep me busy later on.
Today I managed to get the bilge pump installed and working, even that was a battle with the hull welded threaded studs needing heli coiling etc.
I fitted the drain plugs and filled the hull with water, the pump worked good and this show where other leaks are.
Winch lower cover plate has been refitted .
I have to wire up and make a water level warning buzzer sensor.
It is interesting that operation of the bilge pump shows , by the time the water is high enough for it to work the toothed belt on the front of the motor would already be spraying water about the place and the pump has a air bleed
cum water jet arrangement which sprays water about the place too.
i think I will block this off, as if everything is working as the air bleed is not needed.

I am at a stand still at the front of the vehicle due to lack of money.
I need to do a shop overseas and get the other bilge pump I am going fit in the front of the hull.
Disc pads and some filters are on the list too.
I need to change the main hydraulic filter and steering filter whisle it is easy to get at with all the cabin plates out.
Bills are coming thick and fast, so this is going to be a problem.
Two safety wise important steering hydraulic hoses are being replaced in the cabin.
Ron

From a wiring diagram I have discovered there is a common power supply connection for the fire warning and bilge warning system and I suspect it has been purposely disconnected some where ?
I just have to find it.

I have priced Oversize signs from the local truck place.
For a removable tie on one about 100 dollars.
For a pemanet pop rivet on sign about 60 dollars
I think I will go with the tie on as it involves no drilling of the rear tail gate which should be air tight between its double alloy skins.

Ron - all I can say is I am glad it is you doing all this work and not me.

Good stuff though.

Garry

Pump installed and hull painted inside.( the bottom of hull is full of water so I could test the pump.)



The nappy plate is getting the needle gun treatment.