Thread: The Ultimate FC

Fits in like this

I have my inter wheel dog clutch on the back burner for a while untill I get enough energy to make a tool to side back the existing muff couplings and lay on my belly and a spend a few hours swearing at it.
I have been fitting new rubber boots to the steering ball joints.
The largest truck ball joint remover I could buy or locate is not big enough.
A 10 tonne 2 legged hydraulic puller for gearbox bearings etc is only just removing them.
New boots fitted and the rod ends sand blasted and painted.
I installed grease nipples as this will help to keep water out.
The adjustment tube had a grease nipple installed for the same reasons.

Ron - unless you want a Concourse vehicle why not turf the ignition system and just put in a modern electronic system - I am sure there is something out there that can be used.

Garry

Discs show no wear at all, only some minor suface rust.
Disc pads are very good.
The Disc calipers are 4 pot and have a indicator rod to show pad wear without removing the wheel.
The photos do not show the size of the components.
One of the above pics shows a small truck ball joint against the size of the stalwart one.
The Stalwarts ball joints are unworn.
I am starting to believe the 333 miles now on the odometer as true
The split pins for the ball joint nuts were brass and will be replace by stainless steel items.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Ron - unless you want a Concourse vehicle why not turf the ignition system and just put in a modern electronic system - I am sure there is something out there that can be used.

Garry

The ignition has been converted to electronic and that made a great difference.
The problem was the platium plugs and sheilded ignition leads.
The standard plugs will not self clean as they are not protuded nose.
The sheilding on a HT lead acts as a capacitor and takes the energy out of the spark before it reaches the sparkplug and why the standard plugs must run a small gap.
I wanted to fit military protuded nose shielded plugs , but cannot buy them in this country.
The standard set up is easily refitted if needed.

The following shows the middle hub assembly and what I call the 2 to 1 bar which relays steering movement to the middle wheels.
removing the ball joint from this bar was difficult as the gear puller couldnt be used.
A combination of a portapower with opening jaws, heat on the 2 to 1 bar and loctite freeze and release on the ball joint stud thread popped them.



Note the middle wheel station has only 3 shock absorber/rebound tubes compared to the other wheel stations which have 4 due to the steering linkage

I am thinking of another explore or run with the stolly soon.
I have also made adapter plates for the fire extingushers as the halon military ones are illegal and I need 4 and only have 2.
4 dry power items are now fitted in the original positions.
A extingusher on a Stalwart is important.
Driving off with the parking brake left on may cause a fire in very short order.( It is very easy to forget about the parking brake or not release it correctly due to the way the hand lever works)
The twin contracting parking brake bands are on the very bottom of the bilge or bottom of the hull ,tends to have water and oilly goo about the place.
The gearing of the parking brake drums is that they heat up very quickly in a short distance............dont ask me how I know this .