Thread: The Ultimate FC

Below took a hour after work today.
I am getting very close.........the angle strip on the left.
Another few runs though the rollers and I should have it.
I had to go though a learning process wether I like it or not.
It is the length of the run though the rollers which determines the radius of the finished curve.
Position,or diameter of the rollers matters little.
I took a guess in 1960s English thinking and thought exactly one Foot is easy for some one to measure and remember for the time and the good news is it was one foot.
I need to make a few more pieces of curved leg out angle.
Doing it in stainless made things much harder for my self.
DSCN0459 by john smith, on Flickr

Originally Posted by Homestar

Not sure how much use it will be to you mate, but many years ago I used to make custom aluminium windows - including arched and round windows. The section we used was quite complex but the roller we used was a home made job that did very well. The aluminium section used to take 10 to 20 runs backwards and forwards through the rollers, tightening the radius up slightly on each pass. If it was too tight it would stop moving through the rollers and you'd have to back it off a bit. Slowly slowly with forming the radius is what worked, but as I said we were rolling aluminium, not stainless, although it was quite a large section compared to what your rolling.

The other thing of note was that the rollers were turned up out of 2" steel bar so that all surfaces of the section were supported - and moving. I think some of your issues may be the back of the section you're trying to bend is rubbing on the stationary part of the roller setup.

I know it's a lot more work but do you have a metal lathe at all? Turning up custom made rollers that's support the outside properly on the lower part and the inside properly on the upper part would help a great deal I think.

This all might be known to you anyway but just thought I'd share my experience with

bending metal over the years.

I have Two lathes, an old Imperial Kerry which has a bit of wear, but does a good job at cutting accurate threads.
The other is a unworn Chinese metric machine which OK for general jobbing, but cuts inaccurate threads over long shafts.
Time to get it right and my lack of expertise on a lathe is what would stuff me up.
I just don't have the time to get a working design and then stuff it up a few times in the lathe to come up with the correct roller etc.
But then some times you have to bite the bullet and just do it.
I treasure everyone's input........making mistakes and taking in different ideas is how I learn.

Just another report.
Muffler box all back together.
It will have to come apart again at a later date as to fit new side door water tight rubber seals.........some bolts cannot be reached unless the top comes off the muffler box.
I ended up removing the side door rubber seal as the rubber seal retaining strips are corroded away , as is the body work behind the rubber seals.
This means a lot more rust repair work and new side door seals.
After a year of sitting around I just about have the big silly thing ready to drive again.
I need to do this to keep seals and suspension working.
Besides I need to have some fun with the stalwart after a working bee.

DSCN0491 by john smith, on Flickr
The above shows a new rotary amber light fitted and melted wiring to it replaced( heat from the muffler box)
All the rust has been repaired in that corner of the vehicle.
DSCN0494 by john smith, on Flickr
Below is some of the new rust found on the RHS behind the cabin
Note the previous welded patches towards the side door hinge bracket.
DSCN0492 by john smith, on Flickr

Enjoy

The Alvis Stalwart in Henley On Thames on Vimeo

I cannot do a direct link.......do a search on the Vimeo site and you should find it.

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Enjoy

The Alvis Stalwart in Henley On Thames on Vimeo

I cannot do a direct link.......do a search on the Vimeo site and you should find it.

This one

Click the watch on Vimeo link

That was fun. No lifejackets either.

Wanted to take the big silly looking truck for a drive last weekend......but couldn't.
The paddocks near by work have now been fully developed and the truck now must be road worthy to drive out on a main highway to get to the nearest play areas.
Everything must work and my brakes were not........no air.
The auto water drain valve on the sensing or wet tank decided to stay open and its not something I want happening again and the compressor on the stalwart doesn't have much reserve as it only just big enough to do the job.
The valve is interesting as it triggered by the action of the air compressor shutting on and off.
This valve I have had a part before.
New diaphrams could be made etc, but at the end of the day I think it is going to be safer and more reliable to fit a modern style auto water drainer which I have ordered.
The newer style doesn't need the compressor to trigger it and therefore less complexity.
I have also fitted a manual tap, but the auto is fitted to save climbing up and over and then lifting access plates which may not be possible if a load is in the cargo bay.
The tail gate is temporarily fitted and the lower alloy reinforcement bar which I had welded on fouls the rear lights only by just a few millimetres which stops it dropping down to a ful 180 degrees, but to 160 degrees...........I can sort it out later.
Much welding and seal fitting has to be done before finally fitting of tail gate.
I wanted to reuse the old side gate seals, but it proved to hard to be refitted both inner side door seals correctly.
I noticed the old seals were never fitted correctly anyhow, I suspect because it was too hard.
I have another idea of doing the seals differently.

DSCN0501 by john smith, on Flickr
repaired stalwart tailgate by john smith, on Flickr


Exercising the crane to keep the seals on it working.
FV623 Stalwart by john smith, on Flickr
DSCN0506 by john smith, on Flickr