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Thread: 101 Front brakes retaining pressure

  1. #1
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    101 Front brakes retaining pressure

    While waiting down the garage I notice CanDo was no free rolling very well, like the brake were grabbing. On the way home it started to get noticeable taking off at the lights, by the time I got home I had to put it in Lo just to get under cover. The front rims were quite warm compared to the back.
    Jacked the front up, no turning wheels so cracked the nut on a brake line at the T-piece on the diff housing and heard the shoes contracting and now have turning wheels again.
    I suspect the master cylinder even though the rears seemed OK. I was wondering if anyone has had this happen before?
    I tested the servo unit and it has no vacuum leaks and seemed to working fine previously, is there anything I should do to it while its out other than paint it?
    Any tips advice appreciated.

    As a matter of interest I was wondering if any one had heard the following servo issue -
    From email archive - You will not find any on the open market, so don't even look if any people have them they are hanging on to them the same with the vacuum servo unit part number # AAU1277 these are now obsolete same deal none on the open market. DON'T OPERATE THE SERVO UNIT WITHOUT ANY BRAKE FLIUD IN THE SYSTEM AS YOU WILL CRACK THE BRAKALITE INNER'S IN THE SERVO, THUS CAUSING GROWN MAN TO CRY. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. You can get a 110 replacement servo unit but there is extra parts required and work. Its not straight forward, this is your only option again you have been warned.
    Cheers
    Peter

  2. #2
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    Check the pushrod from the brake pedal to the piston on the master cylinder.
    That pushrod should have a adjustment nut.
    It must have some free play or your brakes will build up.
    With the brake pedal at rest the push rod should rattle around abit if you try a move it with your fingers.
    The back brakes will not get as hot because of the load proporsioning valve near the back axle.

  3. #3
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    Brake hoses develop a restriction. As was explained to me, it's like cholesterol in your arteries. It allows the brakes to be applied but restricts them from releasing.
    This happened to the hybrid and the fintail.
    You may wish to change the brake hoses for new ones.

  4. #4
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    As Mick said - I would replace the rubber hoses if you have not already done so - can cause symptoms as you suggest - rubber de laminates inside and acts like a one way valve.

    If it is not that then I cannot help - except that my booster and master cylinder were rebuilt by my local brake place - so I think the position that there are no parts for them is a bit of a furfy.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    If both front rims were equally warm, then it's probably not going to be a brake hose issue. Check the master cylinder freeplay first as suggested by 101Ron.


    I'm not familiar with the set up of these brakes but I know on some old English cars the master cylinder cap has a breather hole. If this is blocked, it can cause a similar problem.
    Scott

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    If both front rims were equally worn, then it's probably not going to be a brake hose issue. Check the master cylinder freeplay first as suggested by 101Ron.


    I'm not familiar with the set up of these brakes but I know on some old English cars the master cylinder cap has a breather hole. If this is blocked, it can cause a similar problem.
    Your right on that one too.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    If both front rims were equally worn, then it's probably not going to be a brake hose issue.
    While each of the front brakes has their own rubber pipe, there is one central rubber hose that brings the brake fluid down from the chassis to the front axle where it then branches to go to each brake. If there were problems with this pipe both front brakes could stay on.

    This pipe was an issue on my 101 and as result I replaced the lot.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    While each of the front brakes has their own rubber pipe, there is one central rubber hose that brings the brake fluid down from the chassis to the front axle where it then branches to go to each brake. If there were problems with this pipe both front brakes could stay on. This pipe was an issue on my 101 and as result I replaced the lot.
    I think you may be on the money here. I have heard of this problem by thought CanDo was not old enough for blocked arteries but probably is. I'll put three new hoses and a kit in the master cylinder and let you know what I find.
    Thanks everyone.
    Peter

  9. #9
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    When you do the master cylinder be aware that it is basically two master cylinders in one (one for each brake circuit) - there is a small seal (o ring?) on the main shaft that separates the two circuits and this can be easily damaged when the master cylinder is being rebuilt or sometimes it just fails. The result is not a safety issue but if there is higher pressure on one side compared to the other, fluid can leak across to the other brake circuit - this slowly drains one circuit of fluid and puts it in the other with each application of the brakes - maybe less than 1 ml at a time. This shows up as one fluid reservoir going down and the other filling up - as I said not a safety issue as the pressure equalises on both sides when the brakes are on and transfer stops.

    It is quite common with 101s and most people just transfer fluid back to the low reservoir when required. Ron fixed his by using silicon fluid in his system and I have a small pipe joining the two reservoirs so the high one just drains back to the low one.

    My master cylinder was built OK but started fluid transfer about 10 months later.

    Oh - and another thing that could be causing the issue is the brake shuttle valve - has the slide inside moved to close the front brakes off - would stop the fluid releasing the brakes but then you would have no front barkes either and if operational the brake light on the dash should light up.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #10
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    Well Garry your diagnosis was correct, the centre hose is very blocked. I've taken the corresponding hose off the back also and it was OK but I will get them both remade. They are the same threads as the ones going to the front wheels (which I have) but are longer.

    I saw your thread about joining the reservoirs and when I looked at mine the clutch went to the single cell reservoir on on the right and both the brake lines go to the dual cell one on the left. Did not see it as a real problem.


    Many thanks,
    Peter

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