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Thread: 101 Bumper

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    101 Bumper

    Last year I had to drive through a mud hole which has some dry tracks through it but the wider track of the 101 caused it to slip off the dry bits into a deep wheel hole.

    There must have been a large rock in the mud because when I came out the bottom of the passenger side bumper was pushed back about 2" and the light was heavily tilted down.

    Last week I thought I would fix it and got my high lift jack between the bottom of the bumper and the front tyre and jacked the bottom of the bumper almost back into the correct position - almost.

    Not being satisfied with that (silly boy) I then got a chain and connected the bumper to a tree in my yard and let the weight come onto it but it did not to pull those last couple of mm back into position - so a bit like Tom the Toolman Taylor on Home Improvement, I used a bit of power from the engine this time and this was the result



    So now I have to take the bumper off and try to repair or get a new one . So how hard is it to get the bumper off and is there anything special I need to look out for.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
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    Garry

    Had you thought of pulling it back with a chain block or similar?

    You may still be able to repair the said bar using tension, your Hi-lift jack and some work with a heavy hammer, without having to remove the bar.

    Firstly I'd remove the bolt in the end of the bar and repair the hole torn out of the alloy sill panel. Some heat with a heating element on the oxy would be good, but I would be removing the headlamp unit first.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #3
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    Yeah - had thought about it but knowing my expertise I would really screw it up. It has pulled out of the floor and all the brackets at the side are busted (as you can see) and the light brackets are all broken and will require welding up.

    I will pull everything off the end that will come off and see where I stand. The bumper does need to come off for other reasons at some stage but was never a priority.

    Is just a pain - all because of my own stupidity - I was somewhat cranky at the time and spat the dummy big time.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
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    Perth
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    Not sure whats bolted to the top of the bumper as I haven't got that far, but the radiator overflow bottle is bolted to the back. There are 4 bolts holding it to each chassis rail and then a number of bumper support brackets holding it in place.

    There is a spacer between one chassis rail and the bumper mounting bracket as shown in the parts manual (I never had this piece so made one up), be sure to remember which side it comes from. Also you may find it useful to have a engine crane or the like supporting the bumpers weioght when you go to put it back on if by yourself, otherwise its a bastard of a job.

    I can take more pics of my rolling chassis if you like but I dont have the support brackets mounted up yet, nor do I know how the body is attached at this stage if at all.

    Is you intention just to repair the bumper or reinforce it and make a heavy duty version?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    Not sure whats bolted to the top of the bumper as I haven't got that far,

    Is you intention just to repair the bumper or reinforce it and make a heavy duty version?
    The top of the bumper is also bolted to the floor.

    Other work like you suggest was one of the reasons that I wanted to take the bumper off some time.

    The end of the passenger side chassis rail is a little rusty and needs some welding. Also I have some rust holes in the bumper that need welding. I am surprised that there is a pintle hook on the front bumper as I would have thought is strong enough to move anything heavy. My intention was to remove the bumper and install a heavy frame between the chassis rails so that when the bumper is in place the lifting hooks and the pintle would bolt through the bumper to the heavy frame behind. Also the bumper bolts are quite small in diameter so that the weight on pushing pulling anything would be shared between the bumper and frame work - where the hole is for the crank handle I also wanted to put in a receiver hitch so I can plug in bits to the front. I would like to make up an A frame to go on the front - secured through the receiver hitch and lifting points.

    There is no urgency on any of this though.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    If you look at the manual it maybe a front bumper but it is also officially the front chassis rail and obvious very integral for strength overall.

    Mine is bent also, it was like that when I got CanDo. Apparently an asian driver in a Merc sedan did a U-turn in front of previous owner and he end up parked at an angle with front wheels on roof of car. i was told the Merc was written off and you can see by the pic below the front chassis rail/bumper is very strong.


    I need to get it fixed and was contemplating driving to Canberra to enlist Garry's help.. but not anymore
    I spoke to AJ and he offered my one for $800, ouch. So I think a block and tackle with a bit of well directed heat will be the way to go.

    Cheers, Peter

  7. #7
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    Garry

    Had you thought of going up to Sydney and seeing someone like Monty J, he has a 101 and does lots of mods etc to Pretendies.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterP View Post

    Peter - that is exactly how my passenger side was before I tried to start to fix it

    I put the base of a high lift jack on the tyre and the movable lift bit on the bottom of the bumper and it moved out almost spot on - you can go carefully and works well - don't do what I did then and pull it further with some chain through the headlight hole .

    I figured that bumpers would be expensive but not that expensive - fix it, it is - even if I have to cut the end off and refabricate.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
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    Location
    Canberra
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    Thanks Diana - well no as I do not know who Monty J is?

    I take it that he does steel fabrication work.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
    Posts
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    He is a fellow well known around mil landy circles in Sydney, a regular at Corowa who does very nice work on vehicle building and Pretendie manufacture.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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