Thread: Stuee's 101 Rebuild

Removed the outer shells remaining rubber bushings today. Was the crapest job I've had to do to date but got there in the end.

Method I used was to cut to parallel slots about 5-10mm apart, knock out that section with a small cold chisel then knock the shell out. Did the first two with a hack saw then invested in a new toy for the rest . With the leaf springs I tried opening the eye of the spring up by hammering in a chisel, but this method didn't work for me.

Prep has been taking ages but even if I was ready for painting, its really been raining too much lately for me to start.

Pulling out of leaf springs:


The remaining six shells I got out of the leaf springs today in a lesser time it took me to take two out last weekend with a hacksaw:


The chassis shells. The rears were the hardest to get out, but by the last shell I had a system worked out that would probably halve the time I would take if I did it again (but I wont have to because I'm fitting polybushes ).


The new toy . Will also use this to help replace some rotted roof timbers. Will mean I wont have to remove half of the roof tiles to reach everything. (Blade is upside down to reduce the angle of attack to try and prevent gouging the bush housings).

Originally Posted by chazza

I bring my small parts inside and let them get warm near the fire after painting.

I agree with you that the cold weather is probably the problem,

Cheers Charlie

I wait for the missus to go out....have to be sure that she is going to be gone for a reasonable time....so may have to hand over the credit card.....Then....go out side and spray like mad.....then bring all your fiddley bits in, I use ply sheets to lay them on and stick them in the oven then turn on to 150 degrees and then when oven gets up to temp. I turn off and allow to cool in the oven. Paint is rock hard. I use Protec or other high quality paint.........Then all you have to do is make up plausable excuse for why the sunday roast tastes like %@*%

Was determined to get some paint on this weekend. Alas, I've been set back as the ground has been pulled from beneath me, literally...





Was hitting the leaf springs with a flapper disc and I felt the ground drop about 6-8 inches below me, very strange sensation I might add, then killed the grinder and did my best crab walk impression as I attempted to get out of the hole. Each step seemed to push the ground in further before I got out of the hole

It appears to be an old septic tank from before the house was connected to the sewer mains. Will fill it up next weekend and get back to preparing for paint tomorrow

Hi Stuee

I hope you didn't fall into a depression.

I had a slightly different problem, went to couple up a extra toilet to the septic tank and found a brick lined hole covered with a very rotten sheet of corrugated iron, instead. The cost of finding that out, put our, the wife and myself's, finances back for years.

Enjoying your story about the rebuild.

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by stuee

Was hitting the leaf springs with a flapper disc and I felt the ground drop about 6-8 inches below me, very strange sensation I might add, then killed the grinder and did my best crab walk impression as I attempted to get out of the hole. Each step seemed to push the ground in further before I got out of the hole

It appears to be an old septic tank from before the house was connected to the sewer mains. Will fill it up next weekend and get back to preparing for paint tomorrow

I reckon you are lucky you didnt end up in the ****!!

(please swear filter -do you thing!!)

Well I've been doing my best to ignore the sink hole and have finally got some paint on some various bits and pieces.

Prepped springs and diffs:



Painted Springs and diffs:



Inside of the front bumper:



Self levelling paint means it comes out nice and shiny. Unfortunately this type of paint does not appear to reflect hair


The paint is KBS Rust Seal (Aussie made POR15 equivalent). Its a polyurethane type paint that cures with moisture and supposedly sets rock hard, and is fairly difficult to chip or scratch. It takes around 4 days to cure fully but I will feedback how well it goes. Its not UV stable so will fade if exposed to sunlight for extended periods of time but all the above bits should be fine underneath the car. For the bumpers and any parts that face direct sunlight I will overcoat with KBS Blacktop, which is just a UV stable top coat.

Tomorrow I will be coating the chassis and the other side of the springs and bumper. Once I've finished painting all the bits that I prepped I will get onto the sink hole. Didn't want to have dust go over everything that I spent ages cleaning.

More painting completed. During the week or next weekend it should be rolling







The unpainted bits will be getting coated with a UV stable paint.

I forgot to post up the pics of my latest toys (forum keeps quiting on me!!).



These are NES thread repair tools I got delivered from my local tool store. They made cleaning the bolts I've painted a breeze and work well to repair any squashed or damaged threads. Means I don't have to hit each bolt with a wire brush wheel on the grinder because the mud and rust is too well baked on. They will also be used to clear any excess paint off if it turns out I have gunked up[ the threads on the bolts too much.

They are a good bit of kit, pricey, but cheaper than buying a high quality chaser kit or tap and die set.

Before:


After: