Reply With QuoteIf you have some of the adapter manufactures do anything, check their work for alignment and for square! They had at least one batch of Holden/Land Rover adapters that were out of alignment in 3 planes!Originally Posted by 123rover50
YarnMaster
SupporterWell I have gone off auto boxes. I originally put the auto in to make it easier to do the gear shift in the 6x6 FC but I have had problems.As I posted before the 4L80 is too high in first so I have decided to replace it with a MSA. With this box I can do a cable shift.
Dellows have nearly finished casting a new flywheel and flywheel housing to mate the 6.2 Chev with the SAE no 3 of the MSA.
However one of my problems is in the clutch slave on the MSA fouls the Chev starter motor. Should I cut holes in the bellhousing to put it elsewhere. or can I put the slave behind instead of in front or should I go for a Tilton hydraulic release bearing?
Didiman
Super Moderator
If you have some of the adapter manufactures do anything, check their work for alignment and for square! They had at least one batch of Holden/Land Rover adapters that were out of alignment in 3 planes!
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
YarnMaster
SupporterI will check it out . It should be here this week. I will build my own slave adaptor as not too keen on having to split the box/engine if the hydraulic release bearing fails. I will post some pics if anyone interested.
YarnMaster
SupporterWell here it is. Newly cast flywheel and housing. Pressure plate, driven plate, spigot bush and bolt etc.
Over the next few weeks I will pull out the 4L80 and fit the MSA then the LT95 Tbox etc. The remote gearchange may take some time, also the adaptor and transfer shafts etc.
YarnMaster
SupporterSomewhere here I have to find space to install a gear lever and a clutch pedal.
TopicToaster
I can recommend the tilton release bearing. Compact and easy to bleed, never had an issue with them.
YarnMaster
SupporterRemoved the transfer gears to get to the bolts that connect the T box to the adaptor housing. Dropped the T box off then the 4L80.
Notice that Ritters TRB installation of the intermediate shaft uses a one piece shaft that goes right through. I asked about this and they said its stronger as the Army had some issues with the 2 piece shaft that went into the blind pocket.
I had not heard of any problems. Has any one else?
I would like to know as I have to make up my mind as to go with the Ritter shaft or go with the standard shaft and sleeve.
Master
123rover50,
I have a 6.5 chev in one of my Defenders. For the manual gearbox I had to cut the bell housing and have the starter on the passenger side.
I now have a 4L80E auto in. I had Wholesale Auto in Melb build it and give it a lower first and second. Works well pulling a heavy trailer and to date I have not used low range since installing.
Regards,
PeterW
YarnMaster
SupporterThey built mine too. Now they tell me they can put in lower gears but too late now. It cost $6000 so not going to spend any more on it. This truck weighs nearly 5 tonne so going manual and will sell the 4L80. Its not auto but been converted to manual shift.
Master
This is my first auto and I do have reservations at the moment. I am still dialing in the speed etc to set the changes in gears and when it locks up. It isn't that easy to get right. I have it good for normal and highway work, but laoded with a gal trailer full it either revs hard or labours, even though I have changed the settings quite a bit. I can have multiple settings and change between them as desired, but am aiming for a set and forget situation.
Will continue to develop though. As you said the cost is high. Unfortunately there isn't many like this to compare, or learn from prior to install.
Regards,
PeterW
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