The above is the capiler on the RHS being test fitted after removing metal fron the top lug.
After filling the CV hub with fresh oil and fitting the caliper for good access to that filler plug is imposible without removing the caliper.
If you look at the above on the front of the CV housing there is a flat area just above the ball joint stub arm.
I am thinking this would be a good place to drill a 11/32 hole, and tap it to 1/8 BSP and make a new oil level /filler plug.
I have noticed over the years 101 CV housings tend to be leaky.
My wheels are slightly wider than standard, but the inside measurements are the same as a normal 101 wheel.
The tyres fitted are wider than 900x16 bar treads and over hang the rim slightly more than normal.
This trial fit up was without supplied wheel spacer fitted which replaces the now missing brake drum.........so the above pics show the wheel rim slightly more in board than normal.
With my slightly wider rubber I will need to fit the spacers.
If you are a show off with imported spoked wide wheels the spacers will not be needed.

I find this a good bit of kit to fill up the C/V joints and it will be needed even more when I add new smaller C/V oil level/filler plugs.
All in all it looks good.
I ran a dial guage on the LHS disc fitted to the vehicle and got 10 thou all up run out ...........I dont khow what standard disc rotor specs are ?
The adaptor bolts on the back of the hub and thats why you must be so carefull with the surfaces on the back of the hub, or excessive run out could occur.
The only draw back to the whole thing is the access to that oil level plug.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
						acceptable run out for 275mm disc is .002-.004"
.010" seems a tad excessive
cookey
I'm guessing there is a good reason you've not tried this, but would the calliper support plate bolt on 'one hole further round' lifting the calliper above the filler plug, or do the calliper bolts then hit the swivel housing?
On the same topic as Sitec, how hard is it to remove the caliper? Looks reasonably straight forward, two bolts and its off, or is it a case of having to loctite them up afterwards? A bit excessive to check an oil level I guess but I thought the oil weeped through from the main housing when needed so should almost self regulate or is that not how it works at all. I'll have to go back and look at my parts manual, I may be confusing things again.
Do those brake pipes come with the kit or did you make them up? If you have to make them up and caliper removal became a regular thing would flexible hoses be suitable in that application?
Great thread Ron. Thanks for going to the effort of putting it together. I don't have the cash to do this yet but "its on the list!"
What life span are you hoping for out of the discs?
Are replacement discs available?
They keep a few sets of discs on hand most of the time I was told when I ordered mine. I couldn't get a solid answer out of how many km/miles a set will get but they kept saying they were quite hard wearing.
I was tempted to get a spare set of discs when I ordered mine but not sure on the km's I'll be doing yet and still a long way of finishing mine so will put the money elsewhere. I also told myself that when I need new discs for the front it will be a good time to get a set for the rear, just to save on postage and all, at least that's what Ill tell the missus
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