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A note on flasher cans: you can use later model (RRC and other vehicle) electronic flasher cans by simply providing an earth connection for it. These are much more stable in their flash rates than the old thermo types. terminal 49 to +ve, terminal 49a to load, terminal 31 to earth, C trailer pilot and C2 vehicle pilot.
Mines a 12V. At the moment the flashers are neatly housed for me in the wiring kit fuse panel, I hadn't thought of modifying the fuse panel but there's no reason I cant pull it out (the flasher) and wire in a a 4 pin jobbie rather than the standard 2 pin flasher it has now for the indicators.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
I've put a link below of how my battery compartment is looking at the moment (I really need to update my thread with it). With a large cranking battery and my fuse panel its not too bad but I still have an additional blue sea fuse panel to go in (so I can relay the headlights and add accessories later) and further down the track a DBS controller. Could potentially squeeze the relays in too but unfortunately I'm not a sparky by trade so I don't think I'd be able to execute it that well :p
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...l/P1030400.jpg
Well, the 101 Club Historian sent me through copies of the vehicle records from its Military life.:). It has seen action.... Nowhere...:D. In fact, it looks like it was never issued to anyone and spent its whole life sitting in a store. This leaves me in a bit of a conundrum, as it seems it may well have never had a coat of paint other than the bronze olive that Land Rover painted it. The current camo paint job was almost certainly done once it came into civilian life. So, do I keep it the way it is, or take it back to how it was... Not sure at the moment.
A quote from Les 'From this, I gather the vehicle was one of those sold off in gloss bronze green non issued mint condition to the dealer or 1st civvy owner. '
Pretty happy about that, and it seems to confirm that the current low kM are genuine.
Plenty to be thinking about.
Was a good spot for you aux battery but if you fill it up with other gear then nothing will fit - there is stacks of room under the dash area on the passenger side on the inside of the nose cone - easy to get too standing on the ground with passenger door open.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
Garry
I won't need any room there for an auxiliary battery as I've stuck 2 in the sankey trailer I have with it and have the fridge in there. Worked really well when I went camping the other weekend in it.:). It kept the back of the 101 clear for a nice big comfy bed.:) but I'll check that out - it could simplify the wiring.
I am using the auxiliary supply through the NATO 12 pin socket and have used a big diode I had kicking around to ensure current flow is only one way. I'll put a proper system in at some stage. I'll be running that circuit through its own fuse as well.
Here's a pic of one in Bronze Green. What's Bronze Olive?....
When I go away in the 101 I normally do not tow a trailer and sleep in a comfy bed in the back cuddling up to the LPG gas tank. There is still room for the fridge so additional power is needed. As my 101 is 24v I have 2 batteries in the battery box (am thinking of also putting in the ignition coil and ignition amplifier in there away form water) so I have my Aux battery in a box where the spare wheel would normally go. I am thinking of moving it later to the front of one of the rear wheel arches.Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat
Garry
I think he means Olive Drab but Gavs would not have been painted that originally as it is an Aussie Army Colour. Given the history Gav put up it would have had the paint scheme you indicated in the pic - Deep Bronze Green.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
Gav I wouldn't discount the cam on yours just yet as I have seen some in -service pics of RAF 101s and many had cam paint jobs - just black over the base colour. (which does look closer to our Olive Drab than Deep Bronze Green)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...8&d=1370659301
I'm probably getting my colour mixed up - sorry or the confusion. Garry, here's the rub on it being painted in camo - it never went into service. It was delivered to the store from LR and stayed there for 21 years before being struck off and sold at auction. Les seems to think it is one of a few that would never have been painted in its life, so it went to auction still in the gloss deep bronze green that LR painted it.
This is partially confirmed by the PO who said the uy that imported it painted a camo colour scheme on it, and then it was gone over again a few years later. The current paint is only 1 or 2 Coates thick, and peels off easily revealing the deep bronze paintwork...
What to do, what to do... I really do like the camo paint job, so I may just freshen this up - it would be heaps easier than taking it back to the deep bronze...
In the meantime, here's a few pics of today's efforts. Sanded and painted the dash panel - had to use the oven to dry it as my mate who owns a spray shop went away for the weekend - very inconvenient.:D
Cleaned all the old paint off the bezels of the gauges, and decided not to paint them and leave them again. This will match the other gauges I'm buying as they have a very similar white on black face to the factory gauges, but have a polished bezel - I couldn't get them with a black bezel. Put all the wiring on the back of the panel and did a test fit - it all works well. All up I have 32 wires to put plugs and sockets on tomorrow and fit 6 relays and a new fuse panel. This will allow me to easily pull the dash if needed in about 10 minutes, rather than an hour or so.
Back together...
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...psa911c3fd.jpg
Back view of wiring - not very neat, but I was working with the existing stuff. It is tucked up out the way more than the factory loom so less is visible when fitted.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...psc6d6c5a1.jpg
Trial fit to make sure where I have the loom coming out works - it does.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5797c1eb.jpg
I would look at upgrading the instrument light bulbs - even when completely dark you can barely see the instruments and they are much duller than any after market instruments.
Also replace the instrument light on/off switch with a variable resistor so you can have variable light instrumentation.
Garry