Once we set up and people started looking we realised a pack of paper cups and a sign could have made us a few bucks...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by stuee
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Once we set up and people started looking we realised a pack of paper cups and a sign could have made us a few bucks...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by stuee
I would have thought 19/100 was stretching it a bit. That's what the Rangie does when I'm being kind to it. Based on my very inaccurate calculations I was thinking more along the lines of 25/100 but once the speedo is sorted I'll start running some calcs to see what it really is. I did get warned not to rely on the speedo with these tyres on it as it reads about 10 k's out and I'll get done before I know it...Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Even though it looks a bit naff, I'll probably keep the GPS in there to cross reference.
If you have an iPhone there is an app called SpeedBox that will give you speed and distance.
The O/D will leak oil from the selector rod and the end of the countershaft where it comes though the housing at the back of the O/D.
The oil leaks are a design feature of the O/D as to stop the rear X member and diff housing from rusting and it was very thoughtful of Mr Fairly to provide that feature.
I have stopped the oil leak on the countershaft on my O/D by making a screw on end cap.
The leak on the selector shaft I need to remove the O/D to fix and I was thinking of machining a O ring groove on the shaft or in the housing......too much work involved to warrant to do it while it is working OK.
My 101 does 2800 rpm at 100 kph with tyres that are about the same OD as the ZRLs ???? , transfercase ratios fitted make a slight difference to these figures, mine is running the highest one 0.996 ????? using the standard compression motor.
Head winds do make a difference if you use the O/D or not and shows how much that box shaped front end takes to push around.
As for pinging
The first thing to try is check the ignition timing
The second thing to try is changing the sparkplugs to a colder range as colder plugs will reduce pinging.
The Third thing to try is increasing the size of the main jet.
The fourth thing to try is ensure enough fuel flow is getting to the carbies.
mine would get 12mpg ( 19.5 l/100)
fitted elec fans. ( dont bother)
12mpg
fitted overdrive ( dont bother)
12mpg
electronic assist ign ( great mod by the way)
I went with the assist so I could revert to points in an emergency
12mpg but smoother idle.
after a year when changing down for a junction overdrive let go. spit case in two.managed to still drive home abeit very smelly. Also bent fork selector for second gear.
the fairly o/d are not strong enough...
sure its quieter but adds a weak link.
did not change fuel use.
if it still has stombergs I doubt the jetting is off but check dash pots have correct grade oil. Too thin can give a bit pinking.
I found you can tune the carbs like the old SU which had a slide lifter.
remove carb 90. degree manifolds ( Bend a 1/2" spanner to make it easy) then with engine running and a flat blade screwdriver lift slide..if revs rise and continue that is rich if engine slows too lean..the revs should rise a bit then drop.
you will need to have timing set before this and balance carbs with your ear and a bit tube..or a uni-syn if you're posh
I know peoplehave changed carbs from strom to SU ( which doeshelp with fuel) but the stroms stay in tune as long as diaphram is good ( fit new to both as new silicone ones will last the life of vehicle) also stroms have a greater flood angle.
after a few years converted to gas
Thanks but I don't have a smart phone, only a work one that makes and receives calls.Quote:
Originally Posted by drifter
I think that is about the same for mine with the OD in. It is comfortable at about 2,650 which is 95 on my GPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Thanks - I haven't checked anything on the engine yet, I will start that diagnosis and a tune up next week at some stage.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101 Ron
Thanks. The carbys do seem to be out of tune a bit - my Rangie had the same setup a while back and I could feel them coming out of tune. I used to have a guy that could tune these in minutes by ear (an ex Land Rover mechanic who cut his teeth on early Rangies) but he is in his late 70's now and for some reason doesn't want to do them any more...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by amazing
As for fuel usage, I'm not fussed what the figure is as long as it is running well. If I wanted good economy I'd buy a Prius...
Cheers - Gav.
Ok, a quick question. What are the pros and cons of driving around with the front prop shaft removed and the centre diff lock permanently in?
The noise the front drive shaft makes on over run drives me nuts and 99% of my driving is on the bitumen...
Thinking long term I will get the diff rotated if I can find someone I trust to do it, but in the mean time...
Thoughts/comments welcomed.:)
I drove around for 6 months with the front tailshaft out....no issuses except for a slight increase in back lash.
With a good front tailshaft and the Overdrive fitted and working, the 101 tailshaft rattle should not be too much of a problem.
It should only make a noise on the float going down a hill.
The noise causes no damage.
Noise should disappear on the drive or on the overrun.
The use of the O/D makes it easy to keep the power on going down a slight hill and avoid the noise.
If the hill is too steep to keep the power on, then it is just as easy to back right off and load up the tailshaft with the over run.