Gav's 101.

If you remove the front tailshaft you need to run the nuts up tight on the transfercase drive flange as there is nothing to hold the bolts away from the transfercase housing.(the bolts cannot be removed without pulling the flange too.)

Check the how tight are the large nuts that hold the drive flange on both diff and transfercase.....Loctite if loose.
I tend to replace the tailshaft bolts everytime I remove the tailshafts and use nyloc nuts and Loctite as well
The tailshaft vibs tends to loosen things if you give it the chance.
Check wear in the tailshaft sliding spines too.

As Ron said!! I'd be very slow to lift the nose of the diff tho. I thought about it years ago and got advised against it by several people as Salisburys run hotter than Rover diffs and the likelihood of the diff nose pinion bearing getting less lubrication is higher... I can't see it myself... There's enough oil in a Salisbury to make a large mess on the floor, so how the diff nose bearing will be starved is anyone's guess, but that's what I was told. It would be a big job too, as using jigs etc as you'd have to cut the swivels and spring mounting plates off, lift the nose by your chosen amount and weld the swivels, and spring mounts back on! Not only that, the full time 4x4 gives the 101 its positive feel on the road (pulling you round corners etc).. You'd loose that. The CDL will take it but you are still asking a lot of those tiny gears within the center diff as they will still be taking all the load, just not moving... (When engaged, the CDL locks the front transfer box output shaft to the diff casing). If it really is driving you nuts.... Their is always the R380 or Santana 5 speed option, both of which will bolt against the V8, but will put your transfer case about 150mm further back. Being further back cured the front prop rattle/drone on my Nissan powered 101, and I'm hoping the same will happen with the Cummins!! Another thing I heard (tho never tried it)... if you lower the rhs of the V8 and gearbox by 25/30mm that is said to quieter it too... Just my thoughts.. Hope you sort it and let us know if you do!! :)

The pics I've seen of the rotated diffs shows an elbow screwed into where the fill plug goes so you can get a higher level of oil in it and keep the pinion bearing happy.

Yup, that'd work. Would yo go as far as altering the axle casing or just put wedges in and see how you go?

IF I do it, I would go the whole hog and have it modified properly. There was someone in the Eastern burbs somewhere that have done these before and properly - jig and all, but I can't remember where I saw this or who it was...

It would be next year sometime - I don't have either the time nor money to do it at the moment, but maybe one day...

Hence why I was thinking of whipping the front shaft out for a while.:)

I might pull it out and go or a drive on the weekend and see what it feels like.

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Originally Posted by Sitec

just put wedges in and see how you go?

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On a 101 that will stuff up the steering.

The best way is to remove the axles tubes and rotate 17.5 degrees at the diff end. Not the easiest thing to do though.

Dropping the engine and gearbox an inch or two would probably do the trick and not have a big impact on ground clearance.

Garry

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Originally Posted by bacicat

I might pull it out and go or a drive on the weekend and see what it feels like.

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Very smooth and quiet except if you use the clutch and throttle with care.

Not quite 101 related, but it fits in with this - I did some work to my Sankey trailer today. I need to get it registered before I drag it up into NSW, so I've got everything done that was needed before heading down to Vicroads.

It needed safety chains welding onto it, the chassis number Vicroads gave me stamping into it, all the lights working properly and a weigh bridge ticket.

I now have that all done, so I'll make a booking with Vicroads on Monday and should have it registered before next weekend with a bit of luck.

I will have to modify the number plate to fit it where it has to go - anyone know if this is considered an issue in either Vic or NSW?

Cheers - Gav

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bacicat

Not quite 101 related, but it fits in with this - I did some work to my Sankey trailer today. I need to get it registered before I drag it up into NSW, so I've got everything done that was needed before heading down to Vicroads.

It needed safety chains welding onto it, the chassis number Vicroads gave me stamping into it, all the lights working properly and a weigh bridge ticket.

I now have that all done, so I'll make a booking with Vicroads on Monday and should have it registered before next weekend with a bit of luck.

I will have to modify the number plate to fit it where it has to go - anyone know if this is considered an issue in either Vic or NSW?

Cheers - Gav

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I have to put those safety chain on my Sankey, easy job? what chains do we have to use, do they have to be ADR approved?

Where did you mount them?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by juddy

I have to put those safety chain on my Sankey, easy job? what chains do we have to use, do they have to be ADR approved?

Where did you mount them?

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I've not seen anything to suggest they need to be ADR approved. They are just welded to the drawbar.
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...FF/0/VSI24.pdf

More info. Mentions position of number plate.
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...EA9/0/VSI9.pdf