So you would definitely recommend that after market brake booster over the D1 booster - I was surprised to see how cheap it was.
Garry
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So you would definitely recommend that after market brake booster over the D1 booster - I was surprised to see how cheap it was.
Garry
As far as fitment goes it’s a no brainer, heaps easier to fit and heaps less modification required. Performance is the only unknown yet - that will be a few weeks before it’s known as although the brakes will be finished by this time next week, the PS will take a bit of time and I’ve already got all the steering components out.
My guess is that it will be substantially better than standard, but maybe not quite as good as a D1 unit as it is a bit smaller.
Will report back back on performance when I can - unless someone wants to do this on theirs in the meantime - It could be done in a day.👍
Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.
I’m using the biggest one I have - a 5lb mash hammer.
Thanks - haven’t got a heat source that I could pinpoint any heat with. I’ve only got a large butane torch. Oxy set is on my wish list but I bought a bottle of Argon the other day to go with a shiny new AC/DC TIG welder so probably can’t afford another 2 bottles at the moment.
Have been soaking it in Rost Off for a few days - I’ll take the mash hammer to it again on the weekend. Failing that, I’ll have to destroy it to remove it. I can’t go one further now until it’s out of the way, so have a decision to make on Saturday if I can’t shift it.
Have you got two mash hammers? or can you borrow another.
I have found on a few occasions that hitting it from both sides at the same time will flex it enough to break the rust seal.
Worth a try, the tricky bit is your co-ordination in hitting both sides together [biggrin]
Unfortunately there is no room to hit it on both sides, it is in a very tight location. There’s only one side I can get a hammer to.
FYI, that 7/8" MC your using is LR Part Number 569671 ( per the box the 7/8 MC I ordered from Dingcroft arrived in )