Thread: Gav's 101.

Ill be keen to see how you clean up your dash wiring Gav. After the advice of others I too am trying to make it a simple affair to remove the dash. I'm still scratching my head on the best way to do mine. There's plenty of options but not one I'm completely happy with yet.

At the moment I'm leaning towards a few plugs for sensor wires etc and trying to keep as much wiring on the dash as possible when its pulled out (i.e all the dash illumination) and enough slack on the mechanical gauge so that it can be removed. Then there's the problem of laying it all out and actually doing it

I can not tell you the length currently.
I will have to find a old cable and let you know.
I usually post a sample so they don't stuff it up.
Where the drawings good enough if they know the length ?

I have been busy
Found my spare cables.
Hi/low transfercase 101 inches all up length with 96inches on the outer.
You should order Two,............One being for the Transfercase and the other for Overdrive.
It is just as easy to replace both while you are at it and I bet the original transfercase one will be stiff as.

The cable which is 113 inches all up length should be the PTO/winch cable.
Make certain they supply two ball ends and plates per cable.
The replacement cable will be a lighter duty one , but mine have been working fine for Four years or more.
Ensure they supply the forks and clevis pins as per the pics to go on the inner cable ends.

Gav,
If you want to look at an overdrive in situ up close and personal, my 101 is in the driveway.
I'm about to order some stuff from the 101 club. We'll chat later.

Originally Posted by stuee

At the moment I'm leaning towards a few plugs for sensor wires etc and trying to keep as much wiring on the dash as possible when its pulled out (i.e all the dash illumination) and enough slack on the mechanical gauge so that it can be removed. Then there's the problem of laying it all out and actually doing it

My thoughts at the moment is to scrap the relays and flasher unit that reside on the RHS kick panel, and relocate them where the fuse block is going - in the battery box. One of the relays there was Badly corroded and starting to cook the Irving as well - it was on borrowed time. This will eliminate the wiring out of he RHS of the dash.

My aim is to have a set of plugs on the LHS of the dash loom that will plug into sockets to make fitting and removal easier, and allow everything to stay mounted on the dash panel. The easiest way or the mechanical gauges I think is to leave enough slack to move the dash up, then unscrew them from the back of the meter panel - this is what I did when removing the dash, although I pulled both of them out afterwards so I can clean everything up.

You need o pull the steering wheel off to do this, but it gives you heaps more room or everything. I also removed all the aftermarket wiring that had been done as I wasn't happy with it. There was some dodgey wiring to the dizzy and coil which was also on borrowed time - stuff that had been put in when the electronic dizzy was fitted.

Can't seem to get more than 1 photo at a time to attach...

Another...

Wow! Someone's getting right into it! Well done. Re overdrive, I had the same prob years ago and 'said club' were just as slow years ago! I used my 'High/Low' cable to work the overdrive as I used it a lot, and slid underneath on a piece of mat to engage low when I needed it which was rare as with the thumping great diesel seemed to go anywhere in high!

Originally Posted by bacicat

My thoughts at the moment is to scrap the relays and flasher unit that reside on the RHS kick panel, and relocate them where the fuse block is going - in the battery box. One of the relays there was Badly corroded and starting to cook the Irving as well - it was on borrowed time. This will eliminate the wiring out of he RHS of the dash.

My aim is to have a set of plugs on the LHS of the dash loom that will plug into sockets to make fitting and removal easier, and allow everything to stay mounted on the dash panel. The easiest way or the mechanical gauges I think is to leave enough slack to move the dash up, then unscrew them from the back of the meter panel - this is what I did when removing the dash, although I pulled both of them out afterwards so I can clean everything up.

Due to space limitations I've put modern relays back in the factory location as I didn't want my battery box to get too crowded, or run cables back and forth unnecessarily (well more than what a boot mounted wiring kit has anyway). I now have four relays for ign accessories (inc heater), high beam, low beam and spotties (future). Flasher units are part of the painless wiring kit that I have purchased so are located on the main fuse panel in the battery box. The only issue I've found with this is it doesnt give me the C2 pin for the trailer warning lamp so I need to set up a circuit to do this for me.

I've attached a pdf of my circuit diagram for the dash so far (its a work in progress and may change quite drastically, see page 2 of pdf). At the moment there are six plugs from 3 to 6 way. I still need to account for the wiper switch, future spotties switch, ignition light and brake test light. So that will be at least seven plugs total. This is all with no convoy lamps or infra red lights. If I could get good mil spec multi-pin connector cheap I'd consider that instead but will look at the weather proof automotive connectors by narva and the like which seem to stop at 6 pins. edit* I have been thinking if weatherproof connectors are really necessary under the dash though, I just see them giving much longer life than the standard automotive connectors.