Thread: Gav's 101.

Nah. On board air is good. He'll need it when he converts it to air suspension.

Electric compressors have a limited run time before getting hot, after re inflating 4 101 tyres, I'd think the compressor would be fairly hot and the battery well worked... With Gav's, Ron's and eventually mine, there's always 100psi+ on tap, driven by the engine. The way to go IMO.

Originally Posted by Sitec

Electric compressors have a limited run time before getting hot, after re inflating 4 101 tyres, I'd think the compressor would be fairly hot and the battery well worked... With Gav's, Ron's and eventually mine, there's always 100psi+ on tap, driven by the engine. The way to go IMO.

It depends on the compressor - my $70 compressor will do 4 101 tyres on a hot day without the thermal cutout operating. I think the big ARB compressor with its tank would be competitive with onboard air.

Garry

Ok, just finished running the air for the first time, coolant leak and all...

All my expectations have been blown away by how well it works. Sorry Garry, before running it I may have agreed with you, but now I know it has been worth it. From empty to 115 PSI (measured on the gauge supplied - the cutout switch is 110 so around those numbers anyway) it took 45 seconds running the engine at 1200 RPM. Remember I'm filling a 24 litre tank, so pretty bloody quick! Not sure but on line I've read the York compressors are good for 6 to 8 CFM, and based on how quick the little Bunnings 6 CFM jobs run up a tank that size, I think I'm on par with those.

I drained the tank slowly until it cut in again - it did at 85 PSI, it took 10 seconds to top the tank back up. I think I'd be able to run my 3/8 rattle gun easily.

I really doubt there is a 12 volt compressor out there that could match this for air flow and particularly duty cycle. Also, this entire setup, not including the air horn owes me under $150 all in - I only had to get fittings, the airlines, manifold, gauge etc. I had everything else lying around including the tank, so I'm way head IMO.

The air horn is ****ing loud - ****ed the neighbour off no end testing it....

The only thing I'll do to it is find a high idle setup from a car - the type that push the throttle slightly when the AC is on, as at idle with the compressor running, the engine is close to stalling. It shakes around and complains. At 1200 rpm it is smoooooth and happy, and makes LOTS of air...

So, was it difficult - well, not so much difficult, but it took far longer to do than anticipated and I have caused a few other issues long the way, but was it worth it - hell yes!

Can you post so pics of the mountings for the compressor ?
Garry........ mine compressor is smaller than a York, I knew this when fitting as I had used a Nippon Denso one on a small three in one portable power pak.....home made and couldn't kill the compressor side of it even with continuous use.
The other reason is the Nippon one is smaller and fitted well into the old 24 volt altenator cradle and therefore required little work to fit it.
I know other people who have done the York compressor thing and they pump really good air, but you must have lots of room to fit it.
Gearing of the compressor is another factor.
Mine will run on and off with the engine at idle without loading the motor...it barely feels it.
The gear ratio or speed I am running it could be a factor in this.
I do know I don't really need to ever run faster than 2000rpm engine speed to run air tools and I usually when pumping up tyres etc run say 1000rpm and take my time as to avoid any excessive heat in the system.
The up to Seven horse power advailible though a Vee belt will never be matched by a 12volt electric compressor unless it has a electric motor on it so big it is no longer portable.

Ok, a few pics.. Yes, it is big, and is a tight squeeze, but I got it in there.

This one shows the general arrangement.


This is the bracket I made - got lucky and found a piece of 6mm plate with the fold already in it. I welded an extra support out the front, and it is mounted by 3 bolts - all the spots the original AC bracket mounted to in the RRC. You can also see I had to mount it as close to the water pump as I could and still get to the bolts to mount the compressor - one is very difficult to get to, but doable.


This shows the clearance to the chassis and body - plenty of room, but it was mounted in close so I can get the engine cover back on without modifying it - the engine cover clears by about an inch.


And finally a shot from the side showing how far it sticks up - it is slightly higher than the top of the dizzy cap, but still clears the engine cover. At the bottom, it clears the oil filter by about an inch as well, and I can still get the filter on and off.


So, yes a tight fit, but is mounted solidly and should last for ages. This does suck a bit more power than Ron's as the idle speed is noticeably effected when it is engaged. Best running speed seems to be about 1200 RPM. It runs smoothly and delivers plenty of air.

Still got to fit the alternator and make up a new support bracket for the gear stick, then it should look like it was always meant to live there.

Cheers.

That looks to sit in there really well. Good work! Looks like you'd be able to make a 90deg bracket to pick up the rear of the gear lever carried by the back two bolts holding the compressor body..... Going to be great fun at Melrose, crawling all over these vehicles I've read so much about!

Yep, I've got a heavy bit of angle iron I just need to put a couple of sections in and it will support the gear stick well.

Looking forward to Melrose too.. Although I have a decent 'to do' list before then, but I'm sure not as big as yours.

I've got to replace the gearbox, replace a leaking wheel cylinder on the front brakes, fit the alternator, fix a coolant leak, replace front drive shaft and fit a passenger seat that SWMBO won't whinge about the whole trip. She carries on if she spends more than half an hour in it...