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Thread: Gav's 101.

  1. #561
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    The story with red nuts and hubs is.
    The British were very much into this during the 1950s and 1960s.
    Australia purchased much in the way of British FV vehicles during this time.
    Australia at this time was following some of the British ways.
    A good example is Deep Bronze Green Gloss paint jobs on our army vehicles, even on something like a Studebaker 6x6 of WW2 vintage and American origin and painted olive drab when manufactured.
    On something like a WW2 Blitz usually has split type wheels.
    It is common for the nut that hold the wheel on to the hub to be painted white as to indicate to the drivers these are the nuts you undo to change the wheel on the side of the road.
    The nuts that hold the split wheel together are painted red as a danger warning don't touch.
    Some times on a staff, ceremonial vehicle, funeral vehicle, the whole hub could be painted red to dress the vehicle up or to warn passengers of the protruding shin hurting hub.
    On a SAS vehicle where cammo was very important the wheel nuts were not usually painted any other colour other that the vehicles overall colour.
    The Stalwart is interesting from this point of view.
    The split wheels are painted red and white on the various nuts and bolts that needed to for safety, but throughout the vehicle the red danger paint is used on various fittings and just like a modern car, yellow is extensively used on dip sticks , oil filler points and stuff you should check.
    On the Stalwart the paint warning colours is a great help to find stuff in a crowded small space, just like the inside of a tank.

  2. #562
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    So, all sorted.

    A couple of hours and $15 sees both sides in much better condition. Pictures tell 1000 words so below is what's been done. First pic shows all the bits from one side, the second shows a bit of wear, but it's not too bad and I greased the ball and cup when putting it back together. 3rd pic shows it back together with the grease nipple fitted and new tie rod end boot. I haven't bolted it back on yet as I've still got some cleaning and painting to be done on the hubs and it's easier to move them back and forth without it.





    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #563
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    So, one side complete.

    Only have to remove the sway bar before refitting the wheel. This side has new brake shoes, new swivel seal, rebuilt tie rod, a degrease and paint. The other side will get the same treatment. The shock was stripped back, primed and painted. It was blue under all the surface rust and dirt, but I had a mid grey colour handy, so that's what they are now.

    Also, all the spring bushes are all very good too - I have a feeling the PO must of done these, so when the other side is finished it should be as good as it ever was and ever will be.



    Oh, and an RRC steering damper fits. . It is slightly longer than what I pulled off but the steering hits it's stops at the same time the unit reaches full compression so all good. . On LH lock it is still about 2" from full extension.



    So, now the really big decision - do I paint the hub bolts red again...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #564
    cooee is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    looks likenew

    hi gav
    must say you have done really great job should continue with black paint do diffs look foward when done other side
    cheers cooee

  5. #565
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    If I have time before Corowa I'd like to get the whole front diff cleaned and painted before I go. Now I've done one corner, I feel an urge to do the other 3, so once the front is done, I'll do the back in short order as well I would think. At least it will look mechanically like it's had some work done to it.

    Then it's the winch, then the back half of the body off to....

    .... That story can wait for another day, but there are plans afoot...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #566
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    Body plans??
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  7. #567
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    Other than yours----
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #568
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    All secret squirrel at the moment, all will be revealed in good time - I've got a bit on until after Corowa, so I'll be starting after that at some stage.

    Don't worry, it will still look just as it is - same, same - but different...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  9. #569
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    Yes!

    I'd better get the BBQ working.

  10. #570
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Yep, dust the BBQ off, things will happen soon.

    Also, I've got another question - what is the green used on British 101's? Was it just NATO green or something similar? I'm thinking of breaking out the paintbrush and giving the outside a spruce up as well.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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