Monster 6 Turbo Diesel into a 101.

I am going x brake on mine... But it will be long after you are finished

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Originally Posted by Sitec

Ha! Yeah, I have the tail of the box lower (or should I say engine nose higher to clear the Salisbury pumpkin), and had looked at maybe lifting the rear diff nose a small amount. Looked at the Rakeway handbrake assy too.. They any good? Would that disk hold a 2.5 tonne 101 with big tyres on high ratio diffs with a loaded trailer?

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the rakeway short housing is meant to be a tough bit of race kit... and the X-Eng X-Brake is very good kit, ill fit mine when i fit the box they use the brake mech off a JCB loading shovel (17t odd) and they were tested with a fully laden 110 and trailer on a steep grade. personally i think the tyres will loose grip first...

Air Clutch is pretty simple bud... just use a series 3 109 brake master with a remote reserviour for the clutch master and then feed air into the air part of the slave.

Im tempted to try use the compressor intake with a vacuum reserviour for the brakes... dunno how well it would work though

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Originally Posted by nrs91

Im tempted to try use the compressor intake with a vacuum reserviour for the brakes... dunno how well it would work though

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That's a gud idea... There would be vacuum there... especially with an M10 washer tacked in the end!!

Might revisit the Rakeway site too!:)

Do these have a speedo drive, and any idea of cost? :)

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Originally Posted by Sitec

Do these have a speedo drive, and any idea of cost? :)

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not sure dont think so... If i needed to do the conversion i was either goin to have an electric rpm counter on prop or use the abs sensor to give a feed to td5 speedo but more headaches than its worth... Im looking for mechanical simplicity all round to tie into my goal of a retirement trip round aus in 45yrs time lol

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Originally Posted by spongie

Bit extreme isn't it?I'm changing engine as I've ran out of petrol

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We change wives here when they run out of oil.

DL

Ok, so with all the festive bollocks out of the way, I've managed to get back into it. The fan hub assy turned up, so using this I was able to gauge the final position of the engine fore and aft. Using blocks atop the front axle and below the gearbox, I was able to lift and lower the engine to help decide on its position too. After an hour of lifting, lowering and rolling, the final position was settled upon. Looking thru the starting handle hole found the center of the front pulley to be exactly where it was with the V8. The rear of the gearbox is about 50mm lower to assist with the rear prop angle, engine cover fitment, rear floor fitment, and various other pipework. Once settled upon I was able to roughly mark the chassis with chalk the areas that needed to be cleaned to accept the mounts and a few other things. Then it was time to lift it back out.. :)

Here's the fan hub from the US, that was on a Dodge Ram. The four holes to bolt it too were where they should be on the block, but needed tapping out to remove the rust etc!

Here's the only mod I have had to make t allow the engine to move to the left a little. This cut out is where the compressor head sits. Just below the cut out, you can see where the top of the shocker mount has been shaved to clear the compressor body. Below that is one of the four freshly cleaned chassis sections ready to accept the new engine mount plates.

The first of the engine mount plates made.. This one (LHS) was not too bad. Just a few spacers around the oil fill tube. The original cast Leyland Daf mount plates put the rubber mounts out over the radiator support plates, so this had to be made instead! Tomorrow is the RHS... Which has to work around the lower coolant hose, the turbo oil return line, and limited bolting points!