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Thread: 3.5 v8 Dead - options

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat View Post
    It would be good to know how Lardy did it, as it looks like a **** of a job to do. Not sure if it can be done in a driveway yet - it almost looks like it has to be dropped out the bottom....

    Engine cover off, rad out, linkage off, manifolds off in situ, then there's enough room to slid it forward and out thru the pax door.. The more you can get off the motor the easier it is.. ***** of a job on Ambo's but it can be done... Especially if there's many hands and a way of attaching something to the roof... Can the small panel behind the engine cover be removed? Have seen pics and know that the gearbox cover can't be without major mods!!
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  2. #12
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    Gearbox and transfercase drops out though the bottom and is easy and straight forward.( can be taken out though the top on a soft top GS)
    The engine will rest on is engine mounts until you are ready to lift it out.
    A engine lifter from repco /super cheap etc will not have the reach and lift to get the motor out.
    You need something a bit better to reach in though the side doors and lift the motor out though the side.
    I don't know if it can be dropped out though the bottom, but if you are careful I cannot see why it could not be done with the heads removed from the motor first.???
    If me I would use a forklift with a jib attachment and lift out though the cabin as that is what I have access to......it is different for everyone.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyG View Post
    You guys are amazing, all,this support in a few hours, I dips my lid to you all.
    It's a 101 thing. A bit like AA. We feel each others pain.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    Gearbox and transfercase drops out though the bottom and is easy and straight forward.( can be taken out though the top on a soft top GS)
    The engine will rest on is engine mounts until you are ready to lift it out.
    A engine lifter from repco /super cheap etc will not have the reach and lift to get the motor out.
    You need something a bit better to reach in though the side doors and lift the motor out though the side.
    I don't know if it can be dropped out though the bottom, but if you are careful I cannot see why it could not be done with the heads removed from the motor first.???
    If me I would use a forklift with a jib attachment and lift out though the cabin as that is what I have access to......it is different for everyone.

    Don't forget its an Auto Ron.. Not only that.. Don't fancy removing the heads on the replacement engine.. Re getting it out, yeah, you're prob right.. Strip it and drop it... Not sure what's been modified around it.. Managed to lift mine out from above minus manifolds etc.. But I don't have an Ambo.... Either way, GG, something will happen... There's going to b a few 101 'people' around in early Aug!!
    1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
    1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB

    1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)

    'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
    'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh View Post
    A 3.5 will cost about $8k to rebuild.
    About half that if you source parts yourself and contract out the techo stuff in the rebuild.

    Based on my very slow 4.6 rebuild.

    Garry
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  6. #16
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    I've already had the pleasure of having the box and TC out on this vehicle when I did the rear main on it - what a waste of time that turned out to be..... Came out underneath without too much fuss. Covers behind the engine cannot be removed easily, there is a cupboard on the wall that comes out behind the passenger seat, so I'd have to look at if the engine would go out there, but it may do. I have an engine crane and an adjustable engine lifting bar, so no dramas there - I think it would reach high enough.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #17
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    I personally would go for the 3.9 injected motor. Perfect match if you have the 4hp 20 auto and don't need the gap between the carbs for the gear lever. The extra electrics needed is fairly simple if you have the donor rangy or disco . The 3.9 should also have the oil cooler adaptor already fitted, might have to remote mount the filter.
    I have a couple of 3.5,s in Perth if you needed one. They were both runners but not sure how well.

    Cheers

    Ian

  8. #18
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    We have the workshop and the gear up here to do this. Tis a pity you all are sooo faaar away

    Mrs hh
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  9. #19
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    I think getting the engine out will be absurdly easy compared to the lottery of finding a good secondhand engine!

    For example; the 3500 in my P6 was running very well when it burnt a valve and I decided to recondition it. When it was stripped I found two cracked liners, a buggered camshaft, knackered rockers and shafts, etc. and yet it was running really well!

    A complete rebuild cost me $2800 with me assembling it, however, in those days I didn't know about top hat liners and when I had it running for about 10 000 km the re-bored liners came loose!

    So think long and carefully about rebuilding before you go to the trouble of putting it in, given the difficulty of the ambulance body.

    Good luck,
    Cheers Charlie

  10. #20
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    Update

    Hi All,

    Well thanks to Sitec - I have sourced (I believe) a good second hand 3.9

    I will be hooking up the trailer and heading over to SA this weekend to pick it up, and hopefully get it installed sometime next week..

    Fingers crossed - I shall make it to Wombat!

    I will keep the old engine - for spares. Who knows - maybe one day I would even rebuild it ha ha!

    I shall keep you all posted. Cheers.
    88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
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