24v to 12v

**101 Ron** · 26th April 2008, 10:32 PM

Garry alot of Jap trucks run 24 volts.
A common use of them is for 12 volt trailer hook up and radio gear.
24 to 12 invertors are the go and are resonable in price .
Most of the people with respect dont know the complex nature of the 101s wiring system and the add on problems like the suspression system.
I would leave it 24 volts and use a 12 volt inverter to run what you need to run.
The distributor is running through a 24 to 12 volt resistor standard so getting rid of the complex points dist to a electronic one should not be a problem if it is still fitted.
My 101 was converted and the owner of the time fitted new VDO guages etc to over come the voltage problem with the guages and this has caused many problems in its self.
My wipers are slow.....I dont know if the wiper motor is still 24 or 12 as is the heater fan.
The original water proof altenator and equiptment is well made and I feel shouldnt be disturbed.
Go only 12 volt where you have to and go to the trouble to understand the 24volt system which most people dont do .
It is well made.
Remember 12volts requires a starter motor change too.
I would be interested how cooee changed his 101.
I am currently looking into refitting the water proof 24volt dist and high tension leads with a electronic conversion in the dist to replace the twin points,so the motor will not drown in deep river crossings.
Garry I have a very well made battery box to fit on the LHS of the chassis just infront of the rear wheel.
It bolts straight on and will take a 750 cca battery.....looks good too.
You are welcome to it ....PM me.
My 101 had only one battery in the battery box and the second battery in the chassis box (all 12 volt ) when it got it.
I since fitted to smaller batteries inthe battery box like the standard 24 volt lay out and fitted a alloy tool box for my winching gear in its place to a similar design.
Go to my photo bucket and look at my early photos you may see it.
The other thing which may interest you is or my 12 volt twin battery system is the simple and cheap switching of the batteries........done by two 12 dollar battery switches which are out of sight behind the passenger seat ,but still with in easy reach.
001-2.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

**JDNSW** · 27th April 2008, 05:52 AM

I agree with Ron. Leave it 24v and fit one or more converters to provide 12v where you need it.

Some examples from Jaycar's catalogue:-
MP-3061 10A $59.95
MP-3063 20A $99.00
MP-3066 40A $149.95

These are all specifically sold for use in "truck or bus", and at these prices, why would you go any other way? There are also smaller ones as cheap as around $20 suitable for low current devices.

John

**101RRS** · 27th April 2008, 10:04 AM

Thanks everyone for your views and comments - I am aware of the options - but back to my actual query - is anyone taking 12v from one of the batteries that make up the 24v starting pack and using a battery equaliser to ensure the charge in the starting batteries remains balanced. The redarc model is about $400 - are there cheaper versions or ndo I need to go to the truck wreckers to try and find one as has been suggested.

Cheers

Garry

**101RRS** · 27th April 2008, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by muddy

Garry

Do you have an electrical schematic and If so could I have a copy

See attached - thats the best I can do given the AULRO file size limits.

**Blknight.aus** · 27th April 2008, 12:28 PM

providing your not going to go over about 70% of the rate of the converter for your planned load (no spotties or fridges) one of the 24/12v inverters is going to do the trick if your just running the donk a 10 amper is fine but you cant drag the lights off of it (parkers is a maybe)

doing the 12v side off of a single tap and equaliser was the problem the big yellow FC was having at cooma their setup was letting the fridge draw enough to unbalance the 24v batteries too far and then one wasnt charging which was the one they were drawing 12v from for charging 12v and running the engine side of business which of course all went pear shaped.

if your going to do it fit an accurate volt 12v volts gauge to both batteries in the 24v system so that you can monitor the individual voltages incase something goes wrong.

**weeds** · 27th April 2008, 01:41 PM

yep go the 24 - 12 step down

i got one from dick smith and installed in my army car that i use part time

now i can run the engel longer and it saves killing the battery that the 12V outlets draws from

**Blknight.aus** · 27th April 2008, 01:59 PM

Theres a bunch of these on a stall at the markets they are only between 30 and $70 for 5-20 amp units some look very second hand but they are pretty robust generaly and the old bloke reckons they all work and from the look of some of his goods Im not getting any alarmbells ringing on him being on the shonk.

If theres any interest I can have a look for them next weekend.

**101RRS** · 27th April 2008, 03:51 PM

Thanks guys - I already some of these - I have a source in the security industry where they are used in power systems for security cameras and have a couple of 20amp versions - I am happy how these work and may end up going this route but I an interested in hearing from anyone who has fitted a battery equaliser - I am not sure Cooee had one in his truck when he had his issues.

Cheers

Garry

**muddy** · 27th April 2008, 08:14 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

See attached - thats the best I can do given the AULRO file size limits.

Garry

Thanks for the schematic

Thread: 24v to 12v

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