Thread: 101 front shaft fix

I have seen these before - I do not know why CVs cannot be fitted - they can handle greater angles than UJs.

Garry

Ron,

Have you done anything with you prop shafts as yet - are you putting new slides and UJs in or trying to get a new shaft - if you are getting the bits where are you getting them?

Garry

Just have thrown new UJs in the thing and left it as is.
I one day may have to work something out.
I have too many other issues to sort out at present.
I have the brakes apart currently .
I was only planing to do a hub oil seal and shoes, but a careful inspection of the wheel cylinders suggested I better get some cups and do them.
The silicone brake fluid after two years and lots of creeks and mud works well.
The cylinders are perfect.
I am lucky the drums are good too.
What surprised me was the wear on the shoes....near worn out.
I will have to do the front brakes now as I expect them to be near metal to metal.
I was hoping to hold of on the front end for a while and do it when the front locker goes in.
My machine is still not running back on gas as I haven had time to find the problem.
The 101 has been in constant use lately as a tow vehicle.
Anthony Johnson did find a drivers side heater door for me and so my feet will be warmer this winter.

I am interested in how DODGE (Gaz ) went with the shockers.
I think he is onto something with the rear shockers limiting rear spring drop.
Shockers with longer travel downwards should make a lot of difference off road.
While I have the rear apart I might take them off and look into it.
I put my spare Defender drive axles and flanges side by side with the ones off the 101......like chalk and cheese.
Silly poms for not carrying though heavy duty stuff they had in production to the defenders...silly, silly.

On Monday I am going to buy four new UJ's and put them in and grease up the slides - I was hoping that there might have been more modern UJs that could handle the excessive prop angles better - with an unloaded 101, the UJs operate outside of design parameters - just inside when fully loaded and that is how the 101 was tested when being built.

When you get your new brake shoes you need to check that you do not need oversize (you probably will). This was the cause of my brake problems last year - even with minimal wear on my drums I still needed first oversize.

On the issue of shocks - other that original - my research has shown that the best bet are Rancho and ProComp shocks (I think 4500 and 9000 models).

My steering is too slack that is in the steering box - I have a new box and was just going to put that in and keep the old one as a spare but people on the 101 club have convinced me to try to adjust up what I have first so I will do that.

Garry

Garry
I use Hardie Sipicer replacement UJs( I cannot remember the Part number off hand)
Only two things will fix the 101 UJ problem.
1 roll the front diff and use one double carden joint on the transfercase end.( with possible angling of the motor/transmission alignment)
2 use a short tailshaft with a double carden joint each end.
the second option may not be as strong as the original set up due to the shortness of the shaft required.
If it was a easy fix i think landrover would have done it.
The problem in its self not the high drive angles but different ones in the side ways plane,
This means what ever normal UJ type shaft you fit a vib problem will occur loaded and unloaded.
On the camper 101 I drove ,with the long wheel base (130 inch) with R380 gear box and transmission moved back much further than standard, giving a much longer front drive shaft it still would get a front shaft buzz on the float down hill.
This vehicle is in a very overloaded condition.
The buzz was not anywhere near as bad as a standard 101 ......but it still did it.
My 101 will operate drive shaft wise the same loaded or unloaded.
Landrover made the 101 with this problem for a number of reasons.
The Salisbury diff centre cannot be moved any further to the RHS with out interfearing with the RHS spring.
The Range rover transmission with third diff must be of set alot to the RHS and the 101 chassis is high and narrow.
Even though the Range transmission was designed with the 101 in mind it is not possible for a small production run vehicle of the 101 to have a transmission complelely redesigned for it, or was it possible to use the narrower rover diff on the front , or the earlier and weaker series transmission.
The special short bell housing was the compromise answer,
At the time of the design of the 101 it was not common to use a front drive shaft with a rolled diff and double carden joint and this still doesnt fix things in the side ways plane of operation.
Note landrover used a double carden joint on the stage one series three using the same transmission and motor on a longer front drive shaft using a lot shallower drive angles and the smaller rover diff which is easier to off set.
As for the steering box , adjust the silly thing !
It is a recirulating ball ball type.
That means if the thing has oil in it and then bearings are OK it will be perfect.
I did a steering box adjustment in the sand at Stockton beach with two shifters......its easy.
Jack the front wheels off the ground .
The big locking nut on the side of the steering box loosen it off ( I think it was a 27mm spanner needed) and try not to move the inner smaller adjusting nut whisle doing it.( wheels straight ahead possition)
When loose turn the inner adjust nut clock wise small amounts untill the excessive play disappears.
Dont not tighten the adjustment nut up hard or cause the steering to drag, only enough to remove the play.
Check whisle jacked up the smoothness lock to lock.
Tighten the lock nut without moving the adjust ment nut and its done.
The only possible wear in the steering box if it is half servicable is worn pitman arm bushes and this will show up as movement in the pitman arm underload and a possible oil leak.
The greaseable ball joint conversion on my 101 made a great difference to the weight of the steering.
I have seen your post on the other 101 overseas site.
should try local first...........AULDRO is hard to beat.

A rolled front diff.
Note the shaft angle and extended oil filler.

If you look at the pics above carefully you will see a powersteering pump and a non standard exhaust with the normal leaking CV joints
NOTE THE SPRINGS......they are not parabloic and are normal leafs.
That would be the best way to improve ride and flex without big money.