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Thread: Detroit in the Back of a 101

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    While waiting for my diff bearings to arrive I took the overdrive off my spare gearbox and put it on the back of the 101 transfer case. No real issues in doing it except for getting the rotten circlip back on the gearbox output shaft. I tied a piece of cotton onto it in case it fell down in the pto section of the tfr case. A couple of holes in the ends of the circlip so pliers could be used would have been really helpful. The O/d shows little evidence of wear and all the bearing seem to turn OK. Only time will tell. All I need to do not is make up a lever to go in the main lever bracket up in the cab.

    Also while waiting for the bearings I pulled the diff carrier apart and put in the locker. I assume it does not matter which way it goes around so I just put it in the same way as the pics in the instructions. The four lugs on the locker must be slightly larger in diameter than the original side gear shafts - when the diff carrier is bolted up there is a .9mm gap in the two halves when originally there was none - I pulled it apart to make sure everything went in correctly which it was so I left it.

    The inner race of the diff bearings were a real pain to get off even with a little heat. When putting on the new bearings I put the diff in the freezer for a day before hand and the -20 temp made putting on the new bearings was a breeze.

    I wish putting the diff back in was as easy - the diff spreader came off when under tension and nearly took my finger with it but I managed to get it out of the way. The spreader was working loose from the holes in the diff as I tightened it but once I realized this I just tapped it a bit to keep the prongs in the holes.

    The diff would not go into position and was sitting higher in the housing than it should and would not go in. A mash hammer - cushioned by a few leather gloves - did the job of pushing the diff down to the correct level and tightening the bearing cap bolts pulled the diff in.

    Thats as far as I have got to so far - just gotta clean up all the mating surfaces fot the cover, screw it on and put the axles back in - new oil in the diff, O/D and tfr case and we are back on the road.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #12
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    Diff lock is in - a few teething problems but nothing major. O/D is in and again nothing major (just need to make up a lever and install), new UJs in the rear drive shaft - first one went in OK but one needle in the second one fell out of position during installation so I had to pull it out again and reinstall - finally went back in.

    Test drive without engine cover and gearbox cover went well, albeit very noisy and hot (viscous coupling has had it - thankfully seized rather than slipping). It is amazing the noises and clunks you hear when the covers are off. The noise from the front driveshaft is ten times as loud but it is clear that the noise comes from the gearbox end rather than the diff end.

    The detroit in the rear is not noticeable and even with the covers off I could not hear is disengaging when cornering hard - no change to handling, if fact you would be hard pressed to know it was there. As Ron has indicated drivetrain backlash is marginally greater but is not really noticeable.

    The O/D seems good - no apparent noises when out of O/D. I need to make a lever up and connect the cable up to test it in O/D.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
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    The cable needed is the same as the transfer high / low cable.
    The cir clip for the O/D is easy using special flat tipped pliers.
    I carry the pliers with my 101 and will show you at stockton.
    Find a spare series landrover yellow four wheel drive engage/ disengaged knob for the O/D lever which you are going to make from a piece of scrap steel.
    The detroit is going to bang a few times on its first hard off road work until it wears in a bit and settles down.
    The more miles you do the better it gets.
    You will love the extra traction on a bit of mud or rock work.
    In the sand it makes no difference.

  4. #14
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  5. #15
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  6. #16
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    East-South-East Girt-By-Sea
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    O.K Guys Now my questions:
    • How much did it cost?
    • Can it be done on a 4.7:1 Salisbury?
    • Ron do you want to help me?




    Diana


    BTW great job everyone

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    O.K Guys Now my questions:
    • How much did it cost?
    • Can it be done on a 4.7:1 Salisbury?
    • Ron do you want to help me?




    Diana


    BTW great job everyone
    I bought mine from Kieth at RoverTracks in Colorado in the US cost about $500USD and about $150USD shipping - a lot cheaper than buying here.

    ]101 salisbury detroits are a little different (because of the larger axles) to other landy stuff. As such the price for normal sals stuff is about $50 more expensive.

    The unexpected stuff costs a bit - two new bearings $240. Is relatively easy but with diversions a bit more than the claimed couple of hours.

    I have been driving my truck around a bit today and you would never know it was there - have been doing tight turns no clunking - no changed handling - with the engine/gearbox covers on even the slack in the drivetrain is not noticeable.

    I still have Rons diff spreader - was intending to use it again early next year to put in an ARB air locker in the front.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
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    Hi Diana
    The detroit is a easy fit to a normal series landrover with a salisbury diff.
    For a constant 4wd system like the 101 and defender landies the detroit is my first choice.
    For a part time system I would choose the ARB locker or a better torque locking diff centre like trutrac.
    The detroit and its copy cat systems will make city driving a problem.
    The effect of the constand 4wd systems sharing the normal drive load hides the short comings of a Auto locker.
    The arb can be much more expensive to fit. but when fitted correctly works well enough and you will need a air supply of 90 psi.
    Trutrac should work well in a series sals and be a easy install.
    All the different lockers have good and bad points.
    A axle up grade would be recomended for a sals in a series, county, or defender rover for any locker
    The 101 because of the larger drive axle gets away without a up grade.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Hi guys,

    I have a couple of 101 Detroits I have had sitting on the shelf for ages which I can do real cheap to move them.

    pls email me if you would like a price,

    Ashcroft Transmissions

    Dave

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
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    I notice Garrys detroit worked well on the Wallaroo quarry play area on the Stockton run.
    The lockers are working so well that both both Garry and my self were forgeting to lock the transfercase centre diff.
    Garry once or twice gave his 101 a bit of curry traction/ diff wise and no problems(I didnt think Garry had it in him).
    The detroit is a very good up grade for a 101 with little risk of busting anything with standard rubber and improves the 101s grip in the bush greatly over that of stock.

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