What happened to the access points in the floor for the fuel pump and fuel sender.?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
Garry
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What happened to the access points in the floor for the fuel pump and fuel sender.?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
Garry
Custom built back with chequer plate floor. No holes cut.
Attachment 23979
Attachment 23980
I must admit, this hardtop is starting to grow in me. I might work out where they're supposed to be and get some flaps made up.
I went around the auto shops today looking for a 24v fuel pump. Pointless exercise. I'm looking at them on the net now. I've found Facet and Goss. Does anyone know the flow rate required for a 101?
Mick,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
Between 3 and 6 psi is ample. Using 5/16" (8mm) fuel lines with this pressure is plenty of flow, (just checked and at 30 to 35 G/PH it is well and truly enough!). Standard twin carb 3.5?
JC
The pump is 12v - there is a stepper that reduces the voltage. The electrics are the same as early RR ones but because of the different tank size the lengths on the pipes etc are different. The original pump can be left in the system and an aftermarket one cut into the fuel line - I carry one of these as a spare Electric Fuel Pump 12 volt Solid State 3--4.5psi 120LPH - eBay Fuel Pumps, Air Intake, Fuel Delivery, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 17-Apr-10 21:18:21 AEST)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
I know they work in a 101 as on a trip another 101 had a pump failure and I lend him my spare - took about 20 mins to plump in and wire up - worked fine even with the old pump still in the tank.
You will have to get a 101 pump from one of the usual places.
Garry
It must be integral to the pump itself. Both my 101's have 30v supply on the pump terminals.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Yes, that's why I'm looking for an external pump. A spare to get me out of trouble until I get a real one.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Secrets out now. I bumped into AJ at Corowa. The secrecy was worth it. Dave Jump was there when I was telling AJ of the latest purchase. I'll tell you about it someday. AJ is a 200-300km round trip through the heart of Melbourne for me. I'll be calling into AJ's after easter with a long shopping list that includes two fuel pumps.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
How do you get 30v out of a 24v system - max maybe 27v but not 30v.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
The stepper is not integral with the pump - my pump has 12v at the terminals and has been in and out a few times.
Dunno what is happening with your systems - maybe a new volt meter is required :)
Now that you mention it, I thought it was odd at the time. Multimeter may be a tad inaccurate but slightly, not lots.
It measures the batteries at 34 volts.
The wiring diagram shows the power coming from the 24V batteries, through the pressure switch, through a suppressor to the fuel pump.
What is the suppressor?
If it is a resistor, when there is no current flow, I should be getting battery voltage across the terminals. When the pump is running, the current flow must be such that the voltage drop across the resistor is 12V. If I hook up another pump, I don't know if the current drawn is the same, so I cannot say the voltage will be 12V.
If the suppressor is not a resistor, I don't know what it is or anything about it. If it's showing full battery voltage and it should supply 12V, I can only assume it's stuffed and probably burnt out the pump. I'll find that out when I remove the pump and test it, after I empty and drop the tank, etc.
I can run a new supply bypassing the suppressor and confidently say it will be 24V. Add an external, temporary pump, hey presto, motor running again.
Now for my next trick........
The list of things to do for the first presentation to the roadworthy man is:
Get the brakes working
Get the lights working
Get the windscreen wipers working
Get the demister fan working
Get new tyres
Other things to do
Fix the original fuel pump
Put the original rear tub and soft top on
Source and fit a spare wheel access door
This list will continue to grow as I discover other things.
regards
Mick
My electric fuel pump.
The standard one is still there, but not used.( they are not the most reliable thing)
If you look hard you can see the electric fuel lock off for the LPG.
I carry a spare after market pump too, but have never needed it.
I have purchased my 101 this way and left it as is as I figure it is easier to change the after market pump on the side of the road especially if one has already been fitted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...010/03/114.jpg
Thanks Ron. That's similar to what I'm intending to set up.
The fuel pump in that photo looks exactly like the one is my Series 3 Stage 1. How many volts is it and where do you have it supplied from? What brand is it?
The automotive places (and there were several) I visited to order a fuel pump stocked (amongst others) Goss and Facet fuel pumps. All 12V. When I asked if I could see a catalogue to order in a 24V, they told me Goss and Facet didn't make 24V fuel pumps and there was no catalogue. You get used to that sort of lack of service out here. Then the local businesses whinge and whine about how locals are shopping in Melbourne. Goss and Facet do make 24V pumps. I have their catalogue. I'll order a couple today.
Thanks guys.
regards
Mick
The 101 fuel pump should be 12 volt regardless of the vehicle voltage.
like garrycol said, the 24 volt trucks use a voltage reducer for the fuel pumps and ignition coils.
24 volt trucks have electrical filters and suppressers thoughout the system to stop EMF detection by enemy forces
Most of the wiring in my 101 is non standard by a previous owner and it causes me much grief because of this.
