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Thread: Settings?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Hmm.. Not so fast. 40° should work.
    No way...

    PLA
    = Extruder ~210c - 215c (depending on brand of filament)
    = Bed ~ 60c

  2. #12
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    Thanks, , Mike. the reason I backpedalled on what I said was that the Overture filament I was using said 25°-60°. The FlashPrint Slicer put 40° in, but that probably was my fault, not its.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #13
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    Does your printer sit in an enclosure? Warping can be minimised by slowing the cooling of the model after printing. The smallest air movement will whip the temperature out of the hot print, making it cool faster and exacerbate any warping. Of course cooler ambient winter temps make things worse again. My printer sits in a coreflute enclosure, which the printer itself keeps nice and warm inside when operating.

    Chris

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    Does your printer sit in an enclosure? Warping can be minimised by slowing the cooling of the model after printing. The smallest air movement will whip the temperature out of the hot print, making it cool faster and exacerbate any warping. Of course cooler ambient winter temps make things worse again. My printer sits in a coreflute enclosure, which the printer itself keeps nice and warm inside when operating.

    Chris
    My printer has its own enclosure.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #15
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    FlashForge CreatorPro 2, IDEX.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #16
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    Same stl, different settings
    IMG_5615.jpgIMG_5617.jpg
    Seems straight so far..
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #17
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    Thats looking better

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Thats looking better
    Except, when I came down this morning I found that the filament had bound on the spool, snapped, and the thing had been printing fresh air for around ten hours... ☹️
    The FF does not have a filament out switch, it does not have a pause/restart function, and it is infamously untinkerable... It's a bit like a D2, so many things you don't know you need until you own one.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #19
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    Bugger!

    I just upgraded my Prusa Mk3s+ to 3.5.
    I’ve been running a Revo print head for a while and 3.5+Revo is a lovely combination.

    Whilst I had to pull it apart to upgrade, I figured a change of colour was in order.


    Then printed this (manually swapping the filament took a total of 3.5 hours - it was proof of concept though, so the MMU is now on its way.

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