Thread: what do I buy

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For that money I guess you can get a Tdi300 1995.
On the $10000 perhaps a good County with the rice burner will be my choice.
I would not go for a roofrack on them and prefer to use the trailer for the gear.
It will make the vehicle more stable.
Regarding economy I get just under 10lts per 100 on my Defe.

You might be able to find an OK tdi car at the upper end of that price range. Lower end will get you a good county.
Up to 1990 - Isuzu 3.9 diesel (turbo and non turbo)
90-93 - Tdi200 (reliable but parts harder to come by)
94-97 - Non elec Tdi300 (timing belt problems that should have been fixed at first major service)
97-?? - Tdi300 with electrics.
Next was the TD5 engine with the oil in the loom problem but they will be out of the price range listed.

My 3.9 isuzu (no turbo) has the same power as the tdi cars I drove, but is easily a truck engine. 10 l/100km city driving with lots of steep hills included. My P38 used around 17 l/100km on the same driving...

I think all that's right. If not, someone will be able to correct me.

sounds about right.

Td5 came in in 99,

I think the electric bits for the 300 Tdi might only apply to discos, not sure though.

with the 300 tdi came the R380 gearbox which is a better box than the LT77 which came with the 200 Tdi. I suspect that the Isuzu came with a 4 speed LT85 or LT95, don't know which one is which but I believe they are strong boxes.

the lt85 comes in 2 flavors the split box and the single piece box.

the lt85 is the 5 speed and the 95 is the 4 speed.

morgs if thats you from the chainsaw course a county drives just like a perentie.

Hey Morgs, I think you may be doing yourself a disfavour not looking at 130's as well, it will expand your choices. Basically the same as a 110 mechanically (although I believe they have stronger clutches).

I had two Toyota 60's over nearly 20 years and swore by them. Bought a 95 300tdi (130) a bit over two years ago and couldn't be happier, doesn't even leak as much oil as the toyos.

The 300 Tdi didn't have electrics in Australian Defenders. The last of these was 1998.

The early TD5s had some issues, most of which would be rectified by now, but for your price range you should be able to pick up a late 300Tdi with the accessories you want.

Look out for rust in the chassis, firewall and door frames.

Be prepared to replace the timing belt every 70,oookm. And consider the H/D Clutch from the 130 as a replacement.

The headlight switch is known to burn out, but you can fit a relay in place to save that. The switches are between $35 - $200 depending on where you buy.

I've got a bit of weight in my 110 wagon, as well as a roof rack, and I use 11 litres per 100km around town.

Coming from the patrol, you'll just have to get used to keeping revs above 1900 for any real power, but you soon get used to that.

Rear doors with spare wheels on them may have developed cracks if they've been off road a bit. These can be strengthened, you can replace the door with a 2007-on door which is steel, or you can fit a rear wheel carrier.

Other small improvements would be replacing the plastic radiator bungs with brass ones and fitting a low coolant alarm. The defenders don't overheat as easily as Patrols, but will suffer if they loose coolant. We we're driving in 40.C+ heat around the dunes at Robe a couple of years ago. The Defenders stayed at their normal operating temp. The Patrol and Cruiser from from the people camped beside us were on the red line, and all the Jeeps we saw that day (there were a couple of Jeep clubs out and about) had their bonnets propped up to cool the engine.

Servicing is best done every 5,000km for longevity (oil & filter). After my last oil change I did 3,000km (of highway driving) before the oil even started going black!

I'd echo Michael2's comments. The 300tdi is used by preference by the British military on their Wolf Land Rovers. The engine is solid, very reliable and well proven, although a little noisy. No electronics to worry about.

Regular oil changes and a new filter at 5-7,000kms will pay dividends. It's easy to do, not even jacking is required. If you're not familiar with oil changing, use two plastic bags (check to ensure that there's no holes in 'em) around the filter to stay (reasonably) clean. And as he says, do make sure the timing belt and the pulleys are changed to schedule. If you don't have documentary evidence of it being changed, by the previous owner, get it done. A broken belt generally ruins the engine.

Good luck with the search.

My Defender 90 is a 300tdi and as you can tell, I'm a fan.

The 200/300Tdi's and TD5 turbo diesels are all 2.5 litre they are economical and will be fine for what you want. It is relatively simple to improve their performance if you see the need. Stock 200Tdi power is down a little on the 300Tdi, but it is only tuning (turbo boost pressure mainly).

The earlier 110's, before the 200tdi, have the 3.9 litre Isuzu diesel. Being non turbo they are not as fast as the later turbo diesels. They can be turbo'd, but you will not be able to have factory air conditioning. The turbo Isuzu has more than ample performance. The Isuzu is a truck engine, has great low down power and tremendous reliability and is very long lived. It powers the army Land Rovers (only 6x6 versions are turbo'd) and some versions have fit outs that are very heavy.

They 110 Isuzu's are getting on in years so rust may be problem, and most owners of good ones will not part with them. If you can get a good 110 Isuzu it would be my pick, but I am biased.

Originally Posted by Vin Rouge

... A broken belt generally ruins the engine.

...

Sorry I have to disagree with that statement.

It will ruin your day, but no way will it result in a ruined engine.

If a 300Tdi breaks a timing belt the usual damage is some bent push rods, and if you are unlucky, one or two broken rocker arms. To repair these it isn't necessary to pull the head off.

The pistons may be marked where they hit the valves, but it is almost unheard of for valves to be bent or pistons requiring replacement.