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Thread: HELP! Anyone raised a PUMA? Big TROUBLE!!!

  1. #211
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    Hey Dullbird,

    As Chook73 said you will just need to supply your VIN number it will arrive on your door step about a week later.

    Uni's are 1310's plenty big enough, without doubt. All fully grease-able.
    Here's the link, I dealt with Stuart via email - to easy.

    Cheers

    Bailey Morris Limited - 4x4 Extreme Land Rover

    The PUMA shaft is the brown one pictured.
    Last edited by Drover; 5th February 2012 at 12:10 PM. Reason: extra info

  2. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal415 View Post
    I'm trying to organise some locally built very heavy duty ones using Italian made 1350 series uni's as used on the front puma shaft already but a better quality setup with much wider angles, rather than using a d2 size dc joint with smaller uni's, let me know if your interested in one will be dearer then an imported one but will be about as durable a drive shaft as you will get.
    Cal it really depends on how much dearer, an when your looking at doing it because we go away in July...I'm not fitting for a lift I'm fitting for some piece of mind really...and I have to say I'm curious as to whether it would help with the on off throttle judder/rattle we have.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drover View Post
    Hey Dullbird,

    As Chook73 said you will just need to supply your VIN number it will arrive on your door step about a week later.

    Uni's are 1310's plenty big enough, without doubt. All fully grease-able.
    Here's the link, I dealt with Stuart via email - to easy.

    Cheers

    Bailey Morris Limited - 4x4 Extreme Land Rover

    The PUMA shaft is the brown one pictured.
    You sure its the brown one? so you guys have not just gone with the wide angled prop then you have actually put on a double cardon joint.

    Can I ask for a ball park figure of these?

    I think someone else got one from Devon4x4.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  4. #214
    chook73 Guest
    Yep dc for me

  5. #215
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    Hi, just for info - I used a D2 DC shaft and had it lengthened and balanced by Hardy Spicer in Adelaide. After about 10K with these I think there is a bit of movement developing in the unis and in the slip joint. I have since read on this site of problems with strength/longevity of D2 shafts - live and learn I guess, or do better research. I would second time around go with getting Hardy's to make a shaft from scratch - it may be dearer but if it works and has a long life who cares? It will be cheaper and less trouble in the long run.......

  6. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    You sure its the brown one? so you guys have not just gone with the wide angled prop then you have actually put on a double cardon joint.

    Can I ask for a ball park figure of these?

    I think someone else got one from Devon4x4.
    Definitely the brown one, Definitely the a Double Cardan joint, the brown one is the 30 degree D/C shaft with the larger 1310 uni's.

    These shafts are not the same as a D2 shaft - period.

    Quoted as taking more torque than a stock PUMA shaft.

    Price from memory was about $600AUD's delivered.

    Cheers
    Grant

  7. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    ...and I have to say I'm curious as to whether it would help with the on off throttle judder/rattle we have.


    Hey Dullbird,

    My vibration was only off throttle or on the float at about 90 -110k’s

    The float is that balance between accelerating or decelerating.

    The D/C shaft cured it straight away.

    Cheers
    Grant

  8. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty110 View Post
    Hi, just for info - I used a D2 DC shaft and had it lengthened and balanced by Hardy Spicer in Adelaide. After about 10K with these I think there is a bit of movement developing in the unis and in the slip joint. I have since read on this site of problems with strength/longevity of D2 shafts - live and learn I guess, or do better research. I would second time around go with getting Hardy's to make a shaft from scratch - it may be dearer but if it works and has a long life who cares? It will be cheaper and less trouble in the long run.......
    Exactly my reason for wanting to go to the 1350 uni'd DC joint and super heavy duty spline... longevity!
    I had my old d2 shaft rebuilt a few times, and had uprated uni's, but they still didnt last.

    Lou, the shafts i am looking at will be around the 850 mark unless we get a few more people in on it then maybe 800, can also do the rears using the same bits minus the DC for about 650, or if you want a rear DC as well it will be same price as fronts. I dont mind paying the extra for a shaft that will last a long time, and i am supporting a local business that's always done good by me.

  9. #219
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    Originally I bought a grease-able D2 shaft from "Brit-Part" to suit a Defender.

    Turned out it was to short for the PUMA, thats why I got the Bailley-Morris.

    The uni's in the D2 shaft were smaller that the 1310's in the Bailly-Morris, not sure what size they were.

  10. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drover View Post
    Hey Dullbird,

    My vibration was only off throttle or on the float at about 90 -110k’s
    The float is that balance between accelerating or decelerating.

    The D/C shaft cured it straight away.

    Cheers
    Grant

    Yep same but I cant describe mine as a vibration as you can feel the judders through the car and hear the knock and rattle when it happens
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




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