Thread: Wider rims & tyres for new 110 Defender

I run modded disco rims which have been moved out 20mm. Running 255/85 KM2 I get a clean full lock, full articulation without rubbing and the tyres are within the standard guards.

I you flip them, or go wider the tyres will stick out past the std flares and technically be illegal.

I have an idea of getting my standard wolf rims widened so it still looks stock, but has wider tyres. Probably go 16 x 7.
It's a bit rich however at $220 a rim, but it would be a bit different and look pretty trick. Just another idea to dream about.
Does anyone know the standard off set if any on a Defer, or it wouldn't matter, -25 is -25 regardless?
excuse my limited understanding.

thanks

Originally Posted by lokka

Im running 285/75/16's in the new KM2 and there on neg 25 black round hole dynamic rims and there great

Photo's???? Please That's a nice sounding tyre

Cheers,

Originally Posted by JohnR

Photo's???? Please That's a nice sounding tyre

Cheers,

Yeah Yeah i know the rules once i get some time il do a members ride thread similar to my brothers (cal415) 85 county build thread .

Mine will be much the same running gear just longer and suzi powered

33 x 12.5 x 15 KM2's on 15 x 8 -25mm offset rims.

Wider flares cover them though I think any wider tyre and they would start to hang out.

With this offset and adjusted steering stops I have a better turning circle than the stock wheels.

Hi Guys,
Confused over the neg/pos aspect of offset; if my hub face is nearer the outside of the rim, which do I have? I know it's not strictly correct but on an overall width of 8 inches, the hub is 5 inches from the inside edge. The bead is approx half an inch either side.

Ta!

Originally Posted by Treads

What brand rear wheel carrier mate? I've been looking for 16x8 rims with the same offset as you guys, and was concerned about the tyres touching the tail lights

It is an Opposite Lock Dolium number but it has been heavily modified with welded gussets because I managed to break it in the Kimberley and then again on the Gunbarrel.

OL now sell them with some of these gussets mine has as standard. They put a gusset on the lower cross member attachment - but mine has a much meatier one in this spot - it was my mod, I had it welded in Dalby WA. Then I had 4 extra gussets on the bit that attached to the rear door because this part failed too. So there are probably better ones to buy off the shelf - mine is indestructible now, but! But if you get one of these - the good thing is, if it fails, OL are pretty good about fixing them - even years down the track.

Originally Posted by markyc

Hi Guys,
Confused over the neg/pos aspect of offset; if my hub face is nearer the outside of the rim, which do I have? I know it's not strictly correct but on an overall width of 8 inches, the hub is 5 inches from the inside edge. The bead is approx half an inch either side.

Ta!

The closer the hub face is to the outer edge of your rim the more positive your offset.

Offset doesn't change with rim width, back space does change with rim width.


neg offset puts the hub face of the rim more inward or closer to the truck putting the tyre/rim further away from the truck.

pos offset puts the hub face of the rim more outward or further away from the truck putting the tyre/rim closer to the truck

+ and - offset is the distance measured either side of the center of the rim. So a 20mm + offset means the hub face of the rim is 20mm further away from center towards the outer edge of the rim putting more of the rim under the guards. And a 20mm - offset means the hub face of the rim is 20mm closer towards the inner edge of the rim putting more of the rim outside of the guards.


I hope this helps?

There is a good picture some where but couldn't find it quickly.

Cheers Zeus