hope this is not against any sales rules on this site but pm me if you want a original Td5 defender unit.
Dennis
If the temp on the pipe reads 75 degrees that quickly then the thermostat must open at or before that as rick suggests.
I'd like to know how hot it gets on a summer day after driving all day... Way above 75 degrees im guessing.
Does anyone know what temperature the oil gets damaged at / becomes in effective and makes gear changes difficult?
J
Regards,
Jon
hope this is not against any sales rules on this site but pm me if you want a original Td5 defender unit.
Dennis
as a rough guidline
DEX III compliant ATF starts to drop the bundle at about 160 deg C and is done and dusted by about 300
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
s_b, no cooler, but my point was if it gets that hot that quickly under bugger all load, well, you get the idea
Jon, in my g/box I used to find that while the good quality 75W-80 and 85 syn based oils like Redline MTL and Castrol Syntrans are fine at elevated temps, gear and bearing rattle and synchro action goes to hell (baulking) as they thin out.
This was at ambients of about 35*C and above.
I now run Motul Gear 300 (75W-90, around 15cSt @100*C) and this copes well in summer with good winter shiftability. (it only gets down to -5* or so here)
Obviously the oil cooler (which I have and have never fitted) is the real fix.
Thanks.
The only time I have had the gbox smell like it was hot was when the input gear to lay gear decided to crounch each other. So don't know what came first the thin oil or if the destruction of the gears generated the heat in the first place. This was after approx 90 min 100-110 km/h run down the Hume in 5th. Not towing but a few kg of LR wheels and a pedestal drill.
I would prefer to have a cooler than have to rebuild the gbox again, again. I will have to rebuild it as my mechanic says the gbox talks to him, a few whining sounds as you go into various gears and particularly on overrun. I'd like to build a reliable box but I suspect that one of "the grubb's" MSA boxes might be overkill behind the 300Tdi.
Hi Guys/Gals,
We towed a van up to QLD from Tas. last year with our 300tdi 94 130 dual cab, and the transmission tunnel got that hot we needed the aircon on to keep cool, even though it was only 17 degrees outside. Eight months later I am putting in a new gearbox (L suffix) from ashcroft. Not a cheap exercise. Going in the car at the same time is a 97 r380 oil cooler out of a disco, it is a proper cooler about 500mm x 60mm x 90mm, I will have to modify the piping but it will be worth it.
Cheers
Angus
Would heat sinks mounted along the cooler pipe make any difference?
If you want to put a cooler onto your R380 go to the LR site where they are getting rid of the excess spares, I got a thermostatic cover that goes on the side of the Gbox. It wasn't cheap but better than the new price from the UK.
Hi All. I have seen an oil cooler that looks like a bottle brush, possibly from a late Series Three V8. Does anyone know how these compare with the more conventional type that are miniture radiators? Doing something about this is a priority before next summer. Cheers,130man.
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