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Thread: Best way to keep your defender Rust Free

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    good on him, but I'd say all that TLC goes a long way as well.

    I remember restoring an EH holden as my first car. From years of driving and oil vapour had combined to crate a dust impregnated oil film on the cars under body. After scraping it away the steel was like new. Have often wondered if a mix of diesel and engine oil applied underneath, then a long drive down a dirt road would be effecting rust proofing.
    Still that didn't help the floor pans rusting from inside out, or the doors, or the sills, or the...
    I agree with you

    I think he looked after it rather than the fact it hard the electronic crap fitted to it

    When I was working for land rover I had one o the reps in from the company's that sell those electronic rust prevention things

    I asked him what it did and he told me that it put a negative charge though the car. He did not like it when I said to him that the battery does that any way. He them walked away and would not talk to me

    And in my mind if they really worked they would be in the Uk and Europe where the rust problem a hell of alot worse than it is here. After all for 4 months of the year they put salt on the road which is worse to the car than driving on a beach




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  2. #12
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    I'm another big fan of bitumen paint (e.g. POR 15) - I've found that works better than anything else that I'm aware of.

  3. #13
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    I'd have to say the fish oil route is the way to go. Parents S3 was done (at home) from new, and then annually during the post the long trip away wash up. Unless it was up to Fraser or the like when it would be done before and after. Cheap as, doesn't make anything stick and was like new inside when sold 25+ years later.

  4. #14
    Tombie Guest
    Bugger fish oil - stinky **** that it is.

    Lanolin Aka Lanotec

  5. #15
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    I thought lanolin washed off with water, it was meant to be re-lanolined after every clean.

    well that is what Pat Callahan said anyway...and he'd know, unbiased of course.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  6. #16
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    Fish oil not as bad as it was in the 80's. Get a schlitz gun (underbody spray gun) cheap as and an empty can, stick a hose on the end on the nozzle. Stick into chassis and spray. Best done at your local sporting fields parked in the car park, with your compressor plugged into an external power point. Not that I'd know...

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    I'd have to say the fish oil route is the way to go. Parents S3 was done (at home) from new, and then annually during the post the long trip away wash up. Unless it was up to Fraser or the like when it would be done before and after. Cheap as, doesn't make anything stick and was like new inside when sold 25+ years later.

    Your folks sold a bought from new series 3 and well looked after

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

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    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  8. #18
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    Best way is not take it on the beach....but it is fun...or not live near the coast....when we do the vehicle gets a through wash down from top to bottom and very well underneath as well...it all comes down to maintenance

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
    Our FB Page..
    https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks

    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  9. #19
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    Yeah but after 35 years of driving leaf sprung landies they kinda deserved an upgrade to a disco, plus towing their van a bit easier. Plus the million plus k's...

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