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Thread: Detroit rear locker installation

  1. #1
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    Detroit rear locker installation

    Any idea on the cheapest place to buy a Detroit rear locker for a 94 HCPU with the Salisbury diff (maxi axles already installed)?

    How much should I expect to pay for installation?

    Should I fork out the extra for a Trutrac front, and if so, how much for supply and install?

  2. #2
    scott oz Guest
    Ranga,

    I've had both Detroit in back and true track in front. In my current vehicle I've got ARB air lockers front and back.

    I'm seriously considering taking out the rear air locker and going to Detroit provided I can satisfy myself that I will not get the drive train lockup (shaking) on slow roundabouts etc.

    A true track is not a "full locker" it acts like a limited slip diff. On sand at Fraser island the full locker on the back was fabulous. The true track on the front worked well but when it really got hard it let go so I only had three wheels driving.

    Having the ARB on the front allows me to select when its needed and not and also has the advantage of an air pump. Though having an ARB air pump is not a determining factor as I’m sure others will advise.

    Just my thoughts.

  3. #3
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    youl need front rear lockers out at glass house now

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott oz View Post
    A true track is not a "full locker" it acts like a limited slip diff. On sand at Fraser island the full locker on the back was fabulous. The true track on the front worked well but when it really got hard it let go so I only had three wheels driving.
    Someone correct me if I am wrong here. I have never had a Truetrac but have had Detroit Lockers (No Spins) in three vehicles including a road train prime mover with three of them installed.

    As I understand, a Truetrac is a version of the Gleasman Torsen design first seen about 1981. A development by the Gleason Gear Coy. These were supposed to torque split evenly (or otherwise as the customer required) to both wheels and still provide differential effect. A limited slip diff disconnects drive to the slipping wheel and provides 100% torque to the other wheel. If your Truetrac is a variant of a Torsen then it should drive both wheels. Is this still correct or have Truetrac evolved into something different?
    URSUSMAJOR

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    Someone correct me if I am wrong here. I have never had a Truetrac but have had Detroit Lockers (No Spins) in three vehicles including a road train prime mover with three of them installed.

    As I understand, a Truetrac is a version of the Gleasman Torsen design first seen about 1981. A development by the Gleason Gear Coy. These were supposed to torque split evenly (or otherwise as the customer required) to both wheels and still provide differential effect. A limited slip diff disconnects drive to the slipping wheel and provides 100% torque to the other wheel. If your Truetrac is a variant of a Torsen then it should drive both wheels. Is this still correct or have Truetrac evolved into something different?

    Brian you are correct. The Truetrac gets called a geared LSD, but is more accurately a torque proportioning diff. Apparently the Quaife diffs are almost identical, just a bit better engineered and almost twice the price.

    With a truetrac, as long as both wheels on an axle have some resistance they will both have drive, if you lift one wheel completely off the ground it will act like an open diff.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Brian you are correct. The Truetrac gets called a geared LSD, but is more accurately a torque proportioning diff. Apparently the Quaife diffs are almost identical, just a bit better engineered and almost twice the price.

    With a truetrac, as long as both wheels on an axle have some resistance they will both have drive, if you lift one wheel completely off the ground it will act like an open diff.
    Well, for severe service then, my vote is for No Spins front and rear. The road train with three of them, one in each diff and one in the power divider was great in the sticky stuff. Only problem in deeper loose or sticky stuff was a tendency to power straight ahead in defiance of the steering angle. A tap of trailer brake usually provided enough resistance to overcome this.
    URSUSMAJOR

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    Well, for severe service then, my vote is for No Spins front and rear. .
    No good for constant 4wd.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    No good for constant 4wd.
    Mind explaining how and why? Seriously, I am, interested. Never had a bit of trouble with the triple installation on the tandem drive SSHD's of the Road Boss.

    I reckon they are great gear. My first one was in a big Oldsmobile diff fitted under a Holden HT GTS350 with a much worked engine from a drag boat, 370 hp at the flywheel. The limited slip in the Salisbury was dangerous as it clutched drive from one side to the other causing the car to want to move in a series of s-bends when hard pressed. The 350 chewed the Salisbury up hence the big Olds. The next one went into my 1970 Dodge Challenger with Hemi 426, 600+ hp. Only way to get some of the Hemi's output on the ground with the tyres of the time.
    URSUSMAJOR

  9. #9
    2stroke Guest
    I think he means no good in the front (of constant 4wd).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2stroke View Post
    I think he means no good in the front (of constant 4wd).
    I am well aware. I want to know why.
    URSUSMAJOR

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