Thread: Installing clutch master cylinder

I did at least replaced 2 to 3(in 2years) of them in my Ser3 till a mate had his done in stainless, so I had mine done as well and still was good after 6 years.
This will be my 4th one in since I bought the 130 in 2007.
I had to wait this long as for some reason here in Melbourne no one does stainless re-sleaving, had to get mine done in QLD.
And yes I rang around and around and around, no doubt some obscure out of the way place in Vic can do it, but bugger me if I could find someone, and for the $55 plus postage I wasn't going to look forever.

Originally Posted by fender130

Looking back thru old threads it seems the measurement of 140mm to bottom of pedal is important.
Is this measurement taken from bottom lip of clutch pedal rubber directly back to sloping section of foot well ? If so it leaves very little clutch pedal travel and very early take up !
Thanks all

Yes the 140mm is important, guess how I found out. Had to do sons 110 last weekend. Have done this a number of times & the light of inspiration suddenly shone last weekend.

When you put the push rod through the pivot fit the lock nuts on loosely. Fit the whole pedal box back in place.
Adjust the pedal height using the lock nut at back of pedal box.
This will then set the push rod from the cylinder & you can then tighten up the lock nuts on the push rod & the adjustment should be correct.
The 130 diagram above works for 110.
For tightening the push rod lock nuts I too a cheap 13mm ring spanner & cut out a gap equivalent to the thickness of the push rod & this allows it to slip over the shaft & makes tightening the lock nuts a dawdle.