Thread: high beam switch

You'd really be best just to buy a new switch. You can pick up one online for about $25, or a OEM Lucas one for about twice that from the UK. Freight wouldn't be too much for such a small item.

If you want a cheap option for the headlight wiring upgrade, buy yourself some relays and wire and make it up yourself. I've even seen people go to a wreckers and pilfer old relays and wiring off a Falcon or Commodore or the like, making it really cheap. About the best description of the process I've seen on this forum is in a thread called Expedition Home-build - AU - IE.

Originally Posted by landlocked

Gday,

The switch on my high beam seems very worn such that even the slightest bump in the road will knock the high beams off. Is this wear or just a cunning LR feature built in? Is it repairable? If not where can I find a good secondhand unit to replace it? I would suspect its an expensive part given the indicators and the horn hang off the same unit.

The headlights themselves are pretty anaemic most of the time. I have seen on this forum somewhere an upgrade kit for the wiring loom which was suggested instead of replacing the globes, but I cant find it this morning. Is this a better way to go? I want to add some good spotties soon as I'm doing a fair bit of country night driving at the moment.

Anyone got a spare high beam switch they want to sell?

cheers

jonathan

Hi Jonathan

Have a look online at the UK prices for these switch assemblies, but watch out for the freight costs, as these do vary wildly.

Also unless it has already been done, I would do a modification to your landy and have headlight relays fitted before installing the new switch, I believe that the kits are available from some venders on this forum .

One more thing here, when pulling the steering wheel off , take the nut holding the wheel on completely off then screw it back on by only a couple of turns, this will save your nose if the steering wheel comes away suddenly.

Something I leant the hard way, many moons ago.

Cheers Arthur

I don't want to start a debate here but do you need to take the steering wheel off? I just take the column surround off. The top is a tight squeeze if you have the instrument cluster in place, but with a little jiggling and holding your mouth the right way it comes out.

Thanks for the advice about leaving the steering wheel nut on loosely though Arthur . I'm replacing my steering wheel shortly; something which I've never done before.

Originally Posted by rainman

I don't want to start a debate here but do you need to take the steering wheel off? I just take the column surround off. The top is a tight squeeze if you have the instrument cluster in place, but with a little jiggling and holding your mouth the right way it comes out.

Thanks for the advice about leaving the steering wheel nut on loosely though Arthur . I'm replacing my steering wheel shortly; something which I've never done before.

Hi rainman,

If you can get the covers out of the way easily, there is no real need to pull the wheel, to replace the switch, it is just as I'm not as flexable these days.

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

, it is just as I'm not as flexable these days.

Cheers Arthur

Life is still grand as long as you can still climb up into a Defender.

Traxide or something like that is the maker of the Defender wiring upgrade. Comes with everything you need and he's a forum supporter.

This is who you are looking for:

Traxide

I highly recommend his products. I purchased from him last year and the upgrade was one of the best moves I have made!