Thread: PUMA - Drivetrain Upgrade

LR's don't have a history of wheel bearing problems,the new design is easier to use but for me,like I said earlier it's the dumbarses that keep driving until the bearing welds to the stub thats the bigger issue. Pat

Originally Posted by big harold

Rick130
Bearing adjustment on a TD5 is measured using dial indicator from hub to stake nut. Setting is 0mm endfloat it is adjusted by changing spacer. Spacers are listed in manual at 0.1mm incriments also they are colour coded. 15.5mm to 14.9mm available. Not sure how you go if you end up with preload. My wheel bearings are due to be changed soon. I hope that the tolerances on bearings these days should allow the reuse of the spacer. Would only require spacer change if changing hubs?.
Mark

Cheers, my RAVE copy doesn't show the different spacers.

Originally Posted by wagoo

Bearing wear is bearing wear regardless of the means of adjustment. Feild servicability is less important on Discos and RRs, but on a supposed working vehicles, more often used in remote undeveloped locations it is hardly a positive step.
Wagoo.

All the manufacturers seem to be going away from field serviceability Bill.

Nissan moved from the easily serviced GQ twin nut and bendable tab setup to the GU's single nut that you need a pin tool for and a locking ring that uses screws.

OK, it's easy enough to make the pin tool, but there isn't enough screw positions on the locking ring so you often end up with either too much pre-load or a loose wheel bearing

Originally Posted by wagoo

Bearing wear is bearing wear regardless of the means of adjustment. Feild servicability is less important on Discos and RRs, but on a supposed working vehicles, more often used in remote undeveloped locations it is hardly a positive step.
Wagoo.

I suspect Land Rover would prefer if you didn't take your vehicle offroad, modify it in any way, and replaced it when the warranty runs out (if not sooner).

I bet it won't be long before the bonnet on landies (and other vehicles as well) is "sealed for life" with a sticker like this:

Originally Posted by rick130

All the manufacturers seem to be going away from field serviceability Bill.

Nissan moved from the easily serviced GQ twin nut and bendable tab setup to the GU's single nut that you need a pin tool for and a locking ring that uses screws.

OK, it's easy enough to make the pin tool, but there isn't enough screw positions on the locking ring so you often end up with either too much pre-load or a loose wheel bearing

Rick,I have that style of adjustment system on my McNamara 1.5'' halfshaft upgrade spindles, and whilst it is a bit of a fiddle, the key on the washer is offset relative to the screw holes, and if you flip the washer you can usually get a reasonable adjustment.
I don't necessarily agree with Pat that LandRovers are not prone to wheel bearing issues. The heavy service bearings on Series vehicles had a thick depth of case hardening and could be adjusted virtually forever, but the case depth was much thinner on later bearings on vehicles beginning with the first Rangerovers .I've replaced many badly pitted wheel bearings over the years on later vehicles, and the more closely spaced bearings of even later vehicles tended to wear quicker again,according to the likes of Maxidrives Mal Story who often bemoaned the change to close spaced bearings.
Wagoo.

Wagoo,the only damage I've seen on LR wheel bearings is from damaged seals,water ingress etc,I've never replaced a set that wore out and I've had and worked on some very old LR's. Pat

Originally Posted by wagoo

Rick,I have that style of adjustment system on my McNamara 1.5'' halfshaft upgrade spindles, and whilst it is a bit of a fiddle, the key on the washer is offset relative to the screw holes, and if you flip the washer you can usually get a reasonable adjustment.

[snip]
Wagoo.

That's how I thought it worked but didn't seem to in practice, at least for me.

I agree 100% with Pat303. My previous one got its first WB change at 121,000 miles (195,000km, 11 years old) and it was due to water ingress on perished seals. I replaced all 4 after the first one started squeeling and found rusty water in all of them mixed with the bearing grease (300Tdi, so "dry" axles) and they were still fine in terms of tolerances. Not even sure how long the water was in there!

Changing seals every few years should keep the bearings happy, even on the new setup.