Thread: R380 oil cooler 110 tdi

ok some more questions if this thread hasnt died...............

say I set up the cooler on the back of my cab, with the in and out ports facing down towards the ground. the bottom of the cooler is approx bottom of cab. Now with this and the oil lines conected to the T/stat housing, how do I go about an oil change on the gearbox??

my thoughts are that it wont "self" fill just by introducing oil into the gearbox. And as the filler point would be well below the top of the cooler I cant just add etxra to the gearbox....

Farmport, did you mount your cooler vetically, so one of the ports is on the top, to one side of your cooler?

with the cooler mounted as in where I want to, will the oil drain back into the gearbox when not pumping and therefore over fill the box AND create an air pocket?

just dont want to fubar anything by trying to help it!

Hi Serg,

there are 2 types of pipe fitting to the housing,

early 1/2 BSP (which you have) with a taper type seal,

and the later M20 x 1.5 thread which has an O ring and funny crimp on the pipe

we use the later thread and just screw on a M20 x 1.5 push lock fitting with a 'dowty' washer to seal,

oil will only flow when the thermostat is up to temp and open, you are right to question the oil level, I don't have an answer,

Dave

Thanks Dave,

atleast Im right with the fittings now.....................

Re the oil, does the T/stat, when closed block both pressure and return lines of the cooling? ie if it only blocks the pressure, would it back fill through the return?

I guess if not, its a matter of filling the gearbox, running for 10mins and checking the level and toping up as the Tstat cracks and opens...a bit painfull, But I cant see another way????

farmport, how did you come to the conclusion that there is some oil flow regardless of T/stat postion? are you able to fill your system externaly and not only through the gearbox???

cheers,
Serg

Serg, I just pulled mine apart, and farmport is right, when the t/stat is 'closed' the flow is through the transfer tube from the bottom to top port that go to and from the 'box, and the two cooler ports remain open (but flow will follow the path of least resistance)

As the waxstat starts to extend with increasing temp it closes the port between the top and bottom ports, forcing the flow through the cooler ports.

Bottom line is that as soon as you release the clutch and the pump starts pumping all circuits will be filled.

Originally Posted by ashtrans

Hi Serg,

there are 2 types of pipe fitting to the housing,

early 1/2 BSP (which you have) with a taper type seal,

and the later M20 x 1.5 thread which has an O ring and funny crimp on the pipe

we use the later thread and just screw on a M20 x 1.5 push lock fitting with a 'dowty' washer to seal,

oil will only flow when the thermostat is up to temp and open, you are right to question the oil level, I don't have an answer,

Dave

Cheers Dave, that answers the difference in fittings.

Thanks Rick,

I will confirm this when I hook the system up and fill the gearbox. I will run the engine with the car in netural, say for 5 mins max, and check levels....

I recieved my cooler today, so hopefully next weekend I will clear the Hyd winch stuff out the way and set about measuring up some brackets. Hyd winch stuff will be replaced back, all be it moved to allow cooler localation. i still need to sort fittings and hose, but I figure fit the to ends of the puzzle and the middle will be what it has to be.

cheers,
Serg

forgot to ask, as my T/stat housing is 2nd hand, should I be checking the operation of the T/stat...if so, how?

Undo the circlip, the cover and t/stat should pop out as there's a long spring behind them.
If it doesn't, hit the housing against some hardwood to dislodge the cover (the O ring may hold it in) and it should come out.

Put some pure water in a pot on the stove, rig up a wire support, place the t/stat in the support cradle along with a t/couple/thermometer and heat the bugger up.

They are rated to start to open at 74* so you should see the pushrod start to move around that temp.

Haven't tested mine (or I mightv'e a long time ago ? ) but a water t/stat usually fully opens over about 15*.