Thread: R380 oil cooler 110 tdi

I am just completing oil cooler installation on R380 on 03 extreme. I have just overhauled gearbox as it developed small whine in 5th. there was nothing obvious on disassembly and I suspect excessive end float on input/mainshaft assembly from new as the culprit as 4th gear synchro and engagement teeth were worn unevenly and this is where the two shafts meet with a spigot bearing. Excessive play will allow slight misalignment at this point.
I have chosen to install cooler as my power output is way over standard.
I picked up a cooler from Aliexpress for $61 with 1/2 inch fittings. I also purchased hose and fittings to go from the gearbox to the cooler for $240.00. This included modification of the original silly "cooling pipe" to take hose fittings. I moved the A/C condenser fan as far to the drivers side as possible and mounted the oil cooler to the condenser. It just clears the grille but I have already moved the condenser forward 25mm to accommodate a monster intercooler so clearances shouldn't normally be a problem.
I am using Redline Superlight Shockproof oil.
One thing to be really careful of is the oil capacity. I filled the gearbox to the correct level first and then was surprised to realise the calculated capacity of the oil lines is 560cc, so I introduced this much oil directly into them.
To ensure no drain back of cooler oil the connections face upwards and I also filled the cooler from one side and let the level balance as oil found its way through the cooling galleries by gravity. Oil capacity is now 3.6litres all up.

Thanks Farmport,

My situation up front is: I have no fan as I had to remove it to get my winch nice and close, but I also fitted a thicker A/C condenser when it needed repacing....apart from the room, knowing how my system works and how border line the cooling and intercooling is running the 2.8tgv and towing Im not going to put the cooler up front. Im pretty much going to put it behind the cab...lots of room there and plenty or air space...My thinking is that even without air being forced over it there will be air flow and even little air flow the radiator will have to have a certain amount of heat disapation that does not exsist at this point as there is no cooler....plus the added oil will help. Cooler size im looking at will be 280x250x19mm PWR and will run 1/2 hose 2 and from.

Just make sure it isn't mounted too high, the original cooler for manual transmissions is almost on the same level as the middle line of the trans. I wouldn't think The pump is really very good at pumping a weight of fluid uphill. It'll do it but at a reduced rate.

Like you said, using a large enough cooler you wouldn't necessarily require lots of airflow to have adequate heat exchange.

JC

You could always omit the cooler element and use the chassis as a heat sink. Just run metal cooler pipes in close contact with the chassis side rails, avoiding areas that get hot from the exhaust etc. The longer the pipe is in contact with the chassis the more heat is exchanged.

Works best in the cooler latitudes.

to me running the pipes is really just a band aid and wouldnt do much....if going to the effort, a radiator type cooler will disapate alot more heat than pipes, given the same air flow..

JC, I spoke to someone in he know an he thinks the pump actually has a fair bit of grunt to it...I was told that height wouldnt be a problem (not being silly and mounting it at roof level of course) I was also advised to use good quality Hyd hose with a minium of 1/2 or 12mm dia to handle the flow.

hopefuly mounting it at the back of the cab, on the angled part, so just above the chassis rails , will keep it efficent and the hose length to a min.

My first priority is to sort out the T/stat housing and make sure it will bolt up etc. It has 2 O rings and I see where they go, does it require any sealant or gasket also? Any thoughts on pulling the T/stat out of the housing and running it without it....how reliable are they? are they also a pressure relief valve?

mounting the cooler and hose fitting should be fairly straight forward...

cheers,
Serg

You do know that Discos with R380 in Europe didn't have an oil cooler and some of the ones sold in Au only have exactly what I am describing. The experts will tell you which models.

Yes the radiator/element type are more efficient, some of that only because of the additional fluid capacity, but you have been suggesting a lack of room I suggested the heat sink as an option.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

You do know that Discos with R380 in Europe didn't have an oil cooler and some of the ones sold in Au only have exactly what I am describing. The experts will tell you which models.

Yes the radiator/element type are more efficient, some of that only because of the additional fluid capacity, but you have been suggesting a lack of room I suggested the heat sink as an option.

yep and some of those Europene countries would have preffered to have some cooling on the R380...Please dont confuse LR doing something with good engineering practice..as this is hit and miss for them. Given the same fluid capacity a radiator will be more effiecent than pipe/tube by a fair margin.

Originally Posted by uninformed

to me running the pipes is really just a band aid and wouldnt do much....if going to the effort, a radiator type cooler will disapate alot more heat than pipes, given the same air flow..

JC, I spoke to someone in he know an he thinks the pump actually has a fair bit of grunt to it...I was told that height wouldnt be a problem (not being silly and mounting it at roof level of course) I was also advised to use good quality Hyd hose with a minium of 1/2 or 12mm dia to handle the flow.

hopefuly mounting it at the back of the cab, on the angled part, so just above the chassis rails , will keep it efficent and the hose length to a min.

My first priority is to sort out the T/stat housing and make sure it will bolt up etc. It has 2 O rings and I see where they go, does it require any sealant or gasket also? Any thoughts on pulling the T/stat out of the housing and running it without it....how reliable are they? are they also a pressure relief valve?

mounting the cooler and hose fitting should be fairly straight forward...

cheers,
Serg

Hey Serg thanks for that info about the pump, they don't look very good at pumping a volume of fluid over distance against a head of pressure but thats good to hear. I must say I haven't actually TESTED one, it was just an observation with regards to its size, design and primary purpose, which is lubrication, not cooling a volume of oil. I would leave the thermostat in there, AFAIK they should be very reliable. Best thing to do also is to fit a temp gauge sender in the outlet line to cooler, just for monitoring as it would be highly unlikely you will see any dangerous temperatures...
I have never had to use sealants the Orings are plenty enough. Have had more issues with cooler lines working loose and leaking where they screw into the ally housing than anything else They can't be overtightened or they WILL split the case of the adapter, they are an Oringed low torque joint but still be careful not to be too 'gentle' doing them up. If they come loose they WILL liberate all of the oil in a very short period of time

JC