Thread: stainless steel bolts for defender door hinges

Ray,

Local supplier (Australia) - Landrover Tuning

Landrover Tuning :: Stainless Steel Screw Kit Defender 110 SW - Exterior Defender - Defender

And for 5 times cheaper and most probably at least 4 times faster

Stig's Stainless Fasteners

Read the instructions before unscrewing the front door hinges!!!!!

Hope it helps!

Some years ago I was project managing the refurbishment of a steel building on Norfolk Island. The building was badly rusting from salt - especially in the bolts holding together the RSJs.

I suggested SS bolts to the project engineers but they quickly said no, there would be even more galvanic corrosion of the building structure (not of the bolts).

P38ARover is correct, Stainless Steel and Aluminium don't like each other too much, but neither does normal steel and aluminium to be fair.

I ran the SS bolts in the UK for 8 years and even with road salting there was no perceptable additional corrosion. The OME bolts however rust very quickly and leave streaks down the sides. As always owners own choice, but I can recommend the SS bolts, especially if you live in rust prone areas.

Grease the bolts up nicely before you fit them with anti bonding/corrosion agent and in 30 years time you might have to look at brushing some white dust away with a wire brush and repainting the hinges.

Originally Posted by Loubrey

I ran the SS bolts in the UK for 8 years and even with road salting there was no perceptable additional corrosion.

Good stuff. One can't beat personal experience.

Read the instructions before unscrewing the front door hinges!!!!!

I was about to remove the front door hinge to tighten the mirror bracket back up and don't have any instructions. Loubray, would you be as kind to give me some advice please?

I see that there are captive J nuts in the bullhead side. Bit what about the long hinge side to the door, are they captive too? Or when I unscrew that side will a not just drop down behind the door trim?

Thanks

Ian.

Mools,

You're only looking at the top hinge in this case and it's the easier one of the two. The problem is very fiddly captive nuts inside the bulkhead pillar (exact configuration depending on your model year). If they fall out it is very difficult to get them bach as the bulkhead is steel and the gap too small for most magnetic extractors. There is no other way than to work very carefully and avoid bumping around too much. That's unless some of the guys who've recently replaced mirrors in a different thread have some tips?

They can also be purchased from http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/S...Bolt_Sets.html

I have recently replaced the bolts on all four doors on my 1998 130. The bolts on the lower front hinge going into the bulk head were the worst. Had to end up drilling them out.

I used Galvanised bolts part number BYC100150L (Allmakes 4x4) and they were sourced from British Off Road. This part number can be used for the majority, the bolts that go through the B pillar are much longer and I am sorry but I can remember that part number.

Here's a good guide:

Guide to Removing Defender Door Hinges From Bulkhead | Repair My Landrover

I also had to replace both front lower hinges due to excessive wear in the hinge pin.

I was able to reserect the captive nuts in hte front bulkhead - clean them up and coated them and all bolts in Kopperkote grease.

Good luck

Cheers
Andrew