Thread: Clutch fluid leak - master cylinder?

Originally Posted by isuzu110

I've just done this job in the last week...

Remove the bonnet.

I used to remove the master cylinder from the pedal box which is fiddly. This time I used the advice of the forum and removed the six bolts holding the pedal box in place. You may also need to remove the retaining strip holding the underdash sound deadening to access the top two bolts.

I found that by removing the rubber pedal overlay, removal through the hole was easier.

Removing the master from the box on the bench is now much less fiddly than trying to do it in the vehicle.

Bleeding for me is a 3 person job. One for the pedal, one to do the bleed screw and one to keep an eye on the fluid reservoir. I'm sure you can get by with less or use a bleed kit.

My new masters never come with the right pushrod so I just keep swapping over the original pushrod.

I removed the pedal box the first time I did it about 9 years ago.
Last year I removed & replaced the cylinder with the pedal box in situ.

Unhitched the bonnet stay and folded the bonnet back against the windscreen to gain access.
It's a bit fiddly undoing & replacing the bolts but it's possible and saves removing the sound deadening material (and more importantly trying to get it fitted back in). I did it single handed but having someone to hold a spanner in-place in the cab would make it easier. If you loose your temper easily then go for the pedal box removal.....

A local LR repairer told me Defender 'do it in situ', Series 'remove the pedal box' his reasoning was the messing around with the sound deadening material took too much time.

Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

If you loose your temper easily then go for the pedal box removal.....

Colin

Pedal box removal it is then .

Originally Posted by gromit

Last year I removed & replaced the cylinder with the pedal box in situ.

Was getting quite good at that last year

Martyn

Are the master cylinders a common fault in the Defenders?

Just noticed mine has started leaking again

This will be the third in 50,000km

Can you buy the stainless sleeved ones off the shelf?

My clutch fluid is a dark grey colour so I imagine the piston is munching the bore of the cylinder

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Are the master cylinders a common fault in the Defenders?

[snip]

Yes.

I doubt if an SS sleeved 3/4MC can be bought off the shelf, but you never know.

I bought a PBR one five years, and probably 100,000km ago and it's been fine.
Don't use the OE TRW/Lucas/Girling ones, they are rubbish.

The unfortunate thing is that Girling were the MC's to use on race cars for brakes and clutch, and they were identical to a Landy clutch MC, so go figure.

Originally Posted by rick130

Yes.

I doubt if an SS sleeved 3/4MC can be bought off the shelf, but you never know.

I bought a PBR one five years, and probably 100,000km ago and it's been fine.
Don't use the OE TRW/Lucas/Girling ones, they are rubbish.

The unfortunate thing is that Girling were the MC's to use on race cars for brakes and clutch, and they were identical to a Landy clutch MC, so go figure.

I'll have to get one sleeved then I guess

Reckon thats where I went wrong, bought Genuine last time hoping it would be all good

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

I'll have to get one sleeved then I guess

Reckon thats where I went wrong, bought Genuine last time hoping it would be all good

Been through one genuine one already, IIRC it only lasted twelve months before using the PBR version.

If you get a resleeved one just check it and make sure it's been done properly, I've had one done where they put a tiny kink in the sleeve when the pressed (or however) it in, chewed out 3 seals in a few months before I realised the problem. Also know of one being sent back bored out but no sleeve fitted (a brake m/c)

Secondly if you put a kit through your existing m/c just be aware that there are different pistons and some kits may not fit (had that problem up the cape last year).



Martyn