I've just done this job in the last week...
Remove the bonnet.
I used to remove the master cylinder from the pedal box which is fiddly. This time I used the advice of the forum and removed the six bolts holding the pedal box in place. You may also need to remove the retaining strip holding the underdash sound deadening to access the top two bolts.
I found that by removing the rubber pedal overlay, removal through the hole was easier.
Removing the master from the box on the bench is now much less fiddly than trying to do it in the vehicle.
Bleeding for me is a 3 person job. One for the pedal, one to do the bleed screw and one to keep an eye on the fluid reservoir. I'm sure you can get by with less or use a bleed kit.
My new masters never come with the right pushrod so I just keep swapping over the original pushrod.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)