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Thread: Clutch fluid leak - master cylinder?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Deloraine, TAS
    Posts
    926

    Clutch fluid leak - master cylinder?

    I have had a small clutch fluid leak for a while now, in the Defender, but there is now some fluid on the back of the clutch pedal so it's time for action. I am assuming the master cylinder needs replacing.

    A couple of questions:

    1. Should I go OE or aftermarket? Money is tight so the wallet is telling me aftermarket but the brain is telling me OE. Not much difference though only 17GBP so I have probably answered my own question . Is there much difference in quality from people's experience?

    2. Should I also replace the clutch flexible hose, and slave cylinder whilst I am at it?

    3. I am thinking of giving it a crack myself. Any tips? I have found some good tutorials on the net and doesn't look overly complicated for the master cylinder.
    Simon

    95 Defender HCPU 130

  2. #2
    When I did the clutch hydraulics on my series 3 (same parts as the defender apparently) it was only $30 for the slave and $50 for the master, that was from a Landy parts place so assuming it was OE. Probably not a lot in it, they are probably all made by the same company like PBR etc.

    I replaced the slave and while bleeding it the master died, replaced that too then had a leak in the hard line so replaced that as well, I guess you have to weigh up cost versus time. I wouldn't automatically replace everything unless it needs it, you can spend about $6 or $7 on a rekit for the master if you want to go that way and save some $$$.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ploppy View Post
    I have had a small clutch fluid leak for a while now, in the Defender, but there is now some fluid on the back of the clutch pedal so it's time for action. I am assuming the master cylinder needs replacing.

    A couple of questions:

    1. Should I go OE or aftermarket? Money is tight so the wallet is telling me aftermarket but the brain is telling me OE. Not much difference though only 17GBP so I have probably answered my own question . Is there much difference in quality from people's experience?

    2. Should I also replace the clutch flexible hose, and slave cylinder whilst I am at it?

    3. I am thinking of giving it a crack myself. Any tips? I have found some good tutorials on the net and doesn't look overly complicated for the master cylinder.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    South Yundreup,WA. Bludging
    Posts
    7,091
    LR OE, what a joke they only use cheap trailer master cylinders anyway and charge a fair bit more. The best bet is a PBR unit and preferablly get it resleeved with a stainless bore. From memory only about $60 total.
    There are many post on just this issue.
    2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek
    2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
    1956 P4 90 Rover (project)
    1961 P4 100 Rover (project)
    1976 SS Torana (project)
    2003 WK Holden Statesman
    Departed
    84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
    98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed

    Facta Non Verba

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    3,392
    Quote Originally Posted by pfillery View Post
    When I did the clutch hydraulics on my series 3 (same parts as the defender apparently) it was only $30 for the slave and $50 for the master, that was from a Landy parts place so assuming it was OE. Probably not a lot in it, they are probably all made by the same company like PBR etc..
    If there isn't a name or initials in the casting then the part is quite possibly from India. If PBR (Bosch) are still making them they will probably be made overseas because there isn't much manufacturing left here.

    I replaced the clutch master cylinder in my Defender some time ago. Indian $30, old stock PBR $80 or $120 for an Indian one that had been stainless steel sleeved.
    I'd resealed the original cylinder some years ago and did think about re-sealing again but from the black colour of the brake fluid the aluminium was being worn away by the steel piston.
    I ended up going for the stainless steel sleeved Indian one which should have a significantly longer life, had to change the operating rod because the Indian one was from a trailer and had the forked end.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    If money is tight, the cheapest way will be to rebuild it yourself. Assuming the bore is undamaged, all you'll need is a kit which even sourced locally should be less than $20. The rebuild itself is simple. The hardest bit is getting it out. A ratchet spanner comes in very handy.


    James.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Deloraine, TAS
    Posts
    926
    Thanks all.

    I had a bad experience trying to rebuild the last thing someone told me was easy, so I am just gong for a replacement. Money is tight but not desperate. It just means the baby will have to miss out on a few meals .

    I will check to see what brand my parts guy supplies.
    Simon

    95 Defender HCPU 130

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Deloraine, TAS
    Posts
    926
    Aparently there are two types of slave cylinder depending on gearbox number FTC5202 & FTC5072. How do I find which I have? I can't seem to to find a number similar to these.
    Simon

    95 Defender HCPU 130

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Ploppy View Post
    I had a bad experience trying to rebuild the last thing someone told me was easy, so I am just gong for a replacement.
    Yeah - fair enough. I think next time I will just replace as well. I'm starting to realise that I'm spending too much time in the workshop and not enough time using the things that I'm always playing with.


    James.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,306
    When it comes time to refill the system try silicone brake fluid. (DOT 5)

    Well worth it!

    Cheers, Mick
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Camp Hill Queensland
    Posts
    769
    I've just done this job in the last week...

    Remove the bonnet.

    I used to remove the master cylinder from the pedal box which is fiddly. This time I used the advice of the forum and removed the six bolts holding the pedal box in place. You may also need to remove the retaining strip holding the underdash sound deadening to access the top two bolts.

    I found that by removing the rubber pedal overlay, removal through the hole was easier.

    Removing the master from the box on the bench is now much less fiddly than trying to do it in the vehicle.

    Bleeding for me is a 3 person job. One for the pedal, one to do the bleed screw and one to keep an eye on the fluid reservoir. I'm sure you can get by with less or use a bleed kit.

    My new masters never come with the right pushrod so I just keep swapping over the original pushrod.
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

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