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Thread: Best Engine Oil For Puma

  1. #61
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    When I had my 2.4 I used castrol edge 5w-30 I changed oil every 5,000 which by the sounds of it is a waste of money however there was never a time the engine did not hit max revs or held on the speed limiter so it may have helped a smidgen....I am about to get a 2.2 puma and am now lost as to what the final verdict is on exactly what oil is preferred ?

    There was mention of gearbox oil for the puma...my manual lists BOT130M which I called castrol and they are not aloud to sell it as it must be purchased from LR so I asked for an alternative which they could also not say so I took a punt and used castrol Apx80 (I think it was called that)

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    When I had my 2.4 I used castrol edge 5w-30 I changed oil every 5,000 which by the sounds of it is a waste of money however there was never a time the engine did not hit max revs or held on the speed limiter so it may have helped a smidgen....I am about to get a 2.2 puma and am now lost as to what the final verdict is on exactly what oil is preferred ?

    There was mention of gearbox oil for the puma...my manual lists BOT130M which I called castrol and they are not aloud to sell it as it must be purchased from LR so I asked for an alternative which they could also not say so I took a punt and used castrol Apx80 (I think it was called that)
    BOT130M is a GL4, 75W-90 so VMX-80 is too thin and being a mineral based oil won't last very long.
    Put it this way, it'd shift well when cold, will have more gear and bearing rattle at high loads/temps than the right stuff and start to shear in about 10-15,000km of use.
    As for increased wear, well......

    If you were going to use a Castrol oil I'd use Syntrax Universal, it's the only thing they retail that will be somewhat close to the spec gearbox oil.

    Personally I'd love to try Motul Gear 300 in one, just to compare it to standard.

  3. #63
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    DPF in defer

    I have a 2012 defender and it does not have a diesel particulate filter. There is a lot of misconception regarding this issue, they may have them in the "old country" but mine does not have one even thought he book says it does.
    Lindsay

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    BOT130M is a GL4, 75W-90 so VMX-80 is too thin and being a mineral based oil won't last very long.
    Put it this way, it'd shift well when cold, will have more gear and bearing rattle at high loads/temps than the right stuff and start to shear in about 10-15,000km of use.
    As for increased wear, well......

    If you were going to use a Castrol oil I'd use Syntrax Universal, it's the only thing they retail that will be somewhat close to the spec gearbox oil.

    Personally I'd love to try Motul Gear 300 in one, just to compare it to standard.
    Thanks rick very helpful thank you....
    I always call it apx for some stupid reason but I think that's a castrol grease your right vmx80 is what I've been using...I was using something prior that was suggested to me by a mechanic which I now know why you say not to listen to a mechanic as he suggested me to use valvoline hydrotrans which made the gearbox sound like a brass band when under load at low speeds so hence I decided to have a punt and go with vmx which from your knowledge is not suitable but it did make it considerably quieter and smoother than previous oil...I will be taking your advice and running with it for certain ...thanks again

    What exact oil would you run in an r380 ?

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    What exact oil would you run in an r380 ?
    Syntrans 75W-85 is pretty much a fail safe.
    You could probably get away with Syntrans in the Getrag too, it's a very good manual trans fluid.

    Good shift quality (better, less notchy than Redline MTL IME yet Pat is using MTL in his Tdi Deefer with 400,000+km on it and reckons it's much nicer than when it had ATF)
    The R380 can be idiosyncratic too, JC has mentioned more than once that he has the odd 'box that still seems to shift better overall with a good ATF and they seem to last ok, yet others die a premature death, so go figure ?
    Theory says that a decent MTF gives better gear and bearing protection than an ATF, they just use a beefier additive package and the friction modifiers are optimised for synchros, not fluid clutches and most people find Syntrans a distinct improvement on whatever they've been using in the past.

    I started using Syntrans in the R380 in '02, although these days I use Motul Gear 300 which appears to hold up better at higher ambients (as it should, it's a 75W-90)

  6. #66
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    hmmm, I would be wary. Magnetec A1 5-30 (which is an A5/B5 oil) is ok for D3 & D4 non DPF.
    The correct spec for D4 with dpf would be as stated above Castrol Edge C1 5w30. C1 is the vital bit for low ash

    From L/R's special service message:

    WSS-M2C934-B specification engine oil used in DPF equipped vehicles 2.7 TDV6, 3.0 TDV6, 3.6 TDV8, 4.4 TDV8, Defender 2.2 Puma and Freelander 2.2 TD4
    •Castrol EDGE Professional C1 5W-30

    WSS-M2C913-B/C specification engine oil used in 4.2/4.4 AJV8 Gasoline and non DPF Diesel engines 2.7 TDV6, 3.0 TDV6, 3.6 TDV8, 4.4 TDV8, Defender 2.2 Puma and Freelander 2.2 TD4
    •Castrol EDGE Professional A5 5W-30
    Although Magnetec 5w30 A1 is also perfectly suitable also.

    The price of the Edge C1 is alot more than 913B spec oil!

    HTH
    From the Disco4 site in the UK
    DISCO4.COM - View topic - Engine oil disco 4 3.0

  7. #67
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    Well after much toing and froing, reading lots of posts etc I've decided to stick some Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5w30 in my 2.4l Ford motor... Price $260 delivered ($245+15delivery)from supplier - Green Goanna, Granville.

    Alternative was Nulon off gumtree. (Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 Diesel Formula Long Life Engine Oil at $180 plus ?? delivery). Couldn't read on the Nulon site that it was identical specs for the wss-m2c913-c that the ford motor is specced ..)

    Boy oil changes never used to be this difficult.

    (What price do Ford dealers charge for their 5w30 duratorq Motosport product? I'm guessing they don't supply in 5l or more containers...)
    2010 110 Crew Cab Deefa
    Mittagong NSW 2575

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29dinosaur View Post
    Well after much toing and froing, reading lots of posts etc I've decided to stick some Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5w30 in my 2.4l Ford motor... Price $260 delivered ($245+15delivery)from supplier - Green Goanna, Granville.

    Alternative was Nulon off gumtree. (Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 Diesel Formula Long Life Engine Oil at $180 plus ?? delivery). Couldn't read on the Nulon site that it was identical specs for the wss-m2c913-c that the ford motor is specced ..)

    Boy oil changes never used to be this difficult.

    (What price do Ford dealers charge for their 5w30 duratorq Motosport product? I'm guessing they don't supply in 5l or more containers...)
    Have a look at the super cheap auto web page,
    10 lt of the Nulon synthetic diesel oil is $105
    Nulon Long Life Diesel Engine Oil - 5W-30, 10 Litre - Supercheap Auto Australia

    Full Synthetic 5W-30 Diesel Formula Long Life Engine Oil- Nulon Australia
    At least the oil is easy to find from a retail outlet.

  9. #69
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    Now that my Puma is out of warranty, I am going to start using Liqui Moly, the Leichtlauf Special F 5 W-30 conforms to 913C specs: LIQUI MOLY - Motor Oils, Additives, Car Care - Products - Leichtlauf Special F 5 W-30


  10. #70
    Partick the Cat Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by spudfan View Post
    hmmm, I would be wary. Magnetec A1 5-30 (which is an A5/B5 oil) is ok for D3 & D4 non DPF.
    The correct spec for D4 with dpf would be as stated above Castrol Edge C1 5w30. C1 is the vital bit for low ash

    From L/R's special service message:

    WSS-M2C934-B specification engine oil used in DPF equipped vehicles 2.7 TDV6, 3.0 TDV6, 3.6 TDV8, 4.4 TDV8, Defender 2.2 Puma and Freelander 2.2 TD4
    •Castrol EDGE Professional C1 5W-30

    WSS-M2C913-B/C specification engine oil used in 4.2/4.4 AJV8 Gasoline and non DPF Diesel engines 2.7 TDV6, 3.0 TDV6, 3.6 TDV8, 4.4 TDV8, Defender 2.2 Puma and Freelander 2.2 TD4
    •Castrol EDGE Professional A5 5W-30
    Although Magnetec 5w30 A1 is also perfectly suitable also.

    The price of the Edge C1 is alot more than 913B spec oil!

    HTH
    From the Disco4 site in the UK
    DISCO4.COM - View topic - Engine oil disco 4 3.0
    Greetings

    If a visiting non-LR owner may make a contribution ...

    I have 2008 Jaguar with the 2.7L diesel engine and SpudFan's post above seems to be a bit more up-to-date than we have in the Jag fraternity.

    Here the 2.7L Tdvi (various models up to 2009) is still seems to be recommended to use M2C 913-B (eg Magnatec 5W30 A1) whereas for the 3L Diesel (new models 2009 onwards - it replaced the 2.7) 934-B is recommended (eg Castrol EDGE C1 5W-30)

    Why when both engines are fitted with DPFs is beyond me.

    Then I discovered that four different oil manufacturers (slightly obscure, the only one I've ever heard of before is Q8) that each make an engine oil that claims to meet both 913-B (or C) AND 934-B viz

    Q8 Formula Exclusive C1 5W-30 [meets M2C 913-B and M2C 934-B]

    Granville FS-F 5W/30 [meets M2C 913-C and M2C 934-B ]

    OPUS Synopus Nova Ultra 5W/30 [meets M2C 913-C and M2C 934-B]

    Euro Oils Fully Synthetic 5W/30 C1 [meets M2C 913-C and M2C 934-B]


    This leads me to suspect that 934-B has very similar (possibly identical) viscosity, lubricity etc requirements to 913-B/C .. and simply has the additional requirement of being 'Low-SAPS'. The trouble is I cannot find the detailed M2C 913-B (or C) specs anywhere on-line, nor 934-B, which would really give the true gen.

    Cheers just now ...

    Dave in Gloucestershire UK

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