Thread: Which clutch kit.

There are two basic choices: Valeo or Borg & Beck. Other brands tend to use the same suppliers ( ie the last clutch kit I bought was AP but turned out to be Valeo).

Some time ago put in a HD Valeo version (listed for the defender) - it's been fine behind my 300tdi with 32's. Others have had mixed results from both.
Provided you get the flywheel machined, either should be fine.

When you do get at the clutch, get this mod done on the fork


then you'll never have to worry about punching a hole in it with the slave pushrod.

As for suppliers - try your local clutch specialist ( And I mean specialist - not supercrp or repco or the local parts shop) first before looking interstate or overseas. Since a clutch is a popular replacement part, the possibility that a kit is available local (and at a competitive price) is higher than some other LR parts.

The heavy duty clutch kit comes with it already done.

Talking flywheel machining. Dusty will want to get his done and will want to get tips on removing the dowels [as I do] They are tapered and hard to grip with visegrips.
Please excuse the little hijack but related.

Thanx guys, all good info and precisely what I was after. I will checkout the local specialists first Langy as I do believe in supporting local when possible. With fly-wheel machining, is it a matter of inspecting first and doing if needed or having it done not matter what.

What's the consensus with changing the Clutch on the Defender,
Do you move the gearbox back or the engine forward ??

And how many Klm do they usually start playing up.

My Def is on 135k & orig clutch is fine, but we are heading off for 12mths towing a 13' offroad van , can't see any point changing it if its still good.

re the flywheel, if its dosent have grooves like a '78 I just leave em inplace & rub the shine off with wet & dry !

Originally Posted by Dusty1111

Thanx guys, all good info and precisely what I was after. I will checkout the local specialists first Rangy as I do believe in supporting local when possible. With fly-wheel machining, is it a matter of inspecting first and doing if needed or having it done not matter what.

All clutch manufacturers require a machining of the flywheel for warranty to be active. I would do it.

JC

Originally Posted by goingbush

What's the consensus with changing the Clutch on the Defender,
Do you move the gearbox back or the engine forward ??

And how many Klm do they usually start playing up.

My Def is on 135k & orig clutch is fine, but we are heading off for 12mths towing a 13' offroad van , can't see any point changing it if its still good.

re the flywheel, if its dosent have grooves like a '78 I just leave em inplace & rub the shine off with wet & dry !

I have found that MOST Tdi clutches fail mechanically like pulling the rivets out and tearing the centre boss out rather than actually wear the friction plate away. I would think about replacing the clutch at 180K IF the vehicle does a lot of idling/ city driving. I have seen them fail at 150K, and last as long as 400K. Depends on the driver a lot AFAICS.

Easier with a Defender to remove the engine unless you have a hoist...and air tools...

JC

Actually, we've found that most Tdi clutch failures aren't actually the clutch. It's the release arm punching through. But while there we always fit a new clutch anyway, and fit the new, modified release arm.