Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Rusty Rear X Member

  1. #11
    Didge Guest

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    57
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jojo View Post
    I have been confronted with a similar problem recently and was about to start a thread about it. As pointed out, the replacement will have to be welded to the chassis, hence requiring removal of the fuel tank as it seems. I haven't got that far yet, but will have to in due course.
    I just wonder if there is someone out here who has made a bolt-on conversion that will make changing corroded rear cross members easier?
    Hmm i think it will be a relatively big job despite bolting or mounting.

    When I get the time to have a crack at it I will post up some photos and some information. Probably in the next 3 weeks.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    57
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Terrain Vehicles View Post
    I hope you got one with chassis extensions, that will make life much easier.

    Drop the fuel tank out, give yourself room to work. Be careful with the wiring loom in the chassis. Don't cut off too much.
    Unfortunately no chassis extensions. With the chassis extensions it appears as if the dip in the chassis rail would allow for a larger area to work in.

    I read that some people tie wire of some description to the loom and poke it down the chassis rail out of the way and then retrieve it after using the wire.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    57
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Your existing x-member doesn't look too bad. I have repaired worse (without needing a new x-member).

    I think Inc's comment about the 6-burner was that he may be willing to help you out with welding etc if you offer him suitable enticement .
    I saw some shots of a rear x member on a pommy LR forum and it was beyond imagination, the salted roads and everything else just destroys cars over there.

    The main reason for replacing the x member not plating it is because of my hatred to rust (why did I buy a land rover!) and i got the replacement member cheap as chips.

    A 6 burner hey, wonder if the old man would notice its sudden disappearance

    Fortunately welding isn't an issue, just time to have a crack at it.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Mudgeeraba GC
    Posts
    478
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Mine was about that bad. I just cut out the bad bits and replaced them with sections made up from some SHS I had around. I had to replace the jacking point as part of it as it collapsed when I tried jacking it up. My fab skills are pretty average (strong but ugly), but you wouldn't notice it been patched unless you really had a good look at it. Might be a better option than replacing the whole lot.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    653
    Total Downloaded
    0
    When you do get a chance to do this give me a yell - I might be able to swing by and help. On the subject of wiring, it might be worth rigging a trace wire and pulling the loom through just to have a look at it. One of mine had abraided and shorted out inside the chassis, causing most of the wires to melt together. You might as well check it while you have the chance.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!