3/5 spanners...
time and patients will get it done and you dont even need to drop the box.
look at the TRB upgrade while you're in there
My OZ built '86 110 just got me home after five African Expeditions and no sooner had we unloaded it in Vancouver than it started jumping out of high range on the LT95. Took off the top cover and it looks as if the forward dog clutch has worn teeth. It has about 340,000 Km on the clock
How difficult is it to get this clutch out? Do I need to pull the gearbox?
Ray
3/5 spanners...
time and patients will get it done and you dont even need to drop the box.
look at the TRB upgrade while you're in there
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
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If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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						That's a bugger Ray. I thought that thing would go forever. Seeing as the engine is just run in, you should look at a turbo conversion while you're at it.
Thanks. Good news it can stay in. When was the TRB thing introduced and where does one buy it. Can I drop in a box from an early Range Rover or are the ratios different?
Ray
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						The TRB (Tapered Roller Bearing (on the transfer case intermediate shaft assembly)) box was developed for the Australian Army to improve longevity behind the 4BD1. Officially known as an LT95A, most refer to it as the TRB box.
There are a few ex-army (LT95A) boxes floating around in Aus, but a TRB conversion kit is available for the LT95 (effectively making it an LT95A). The conversion requires some precision drilling on the TC casing for the back of the intermediate shaft, so the box would have to come out, but on the plus side TRB boxes are bulletproof behind a 4BD1.
A rangie LT95 will have lower transfer case gearing to suit the higher revving V8 (1.113:1 transfer ratio as opposed to 0.996:1 on the 110). Rangie LT95's also have a smaller park brake drum than the 110 counterparts, so a 110 LT95 would be preferable.
Not sure where you'd get one, but I'm sure someone will jump in with an answer shortly.
Cheers
Bojan
Last edited by Offender90; 21st November 2011 at 05:45 PM. Reason: to complete
Bojan, SOME TRB sets bolt straight in without mods, possibly the Ritter or AMV ones require drilling? I haven't had any dramas bolting the Mil spec ones straight in. The RRC from early 4door 1982 and 1983 had the .996:1 gears as these had the high compression engines and the close gate shift. These trans were perfect as a 110 fitment except as you point out the useless park brake drum. The 110 rear output housing is required to upgrade to a real park brake, and a better conversion still is using a D1 1994 onward backing plate and full cable as opposed to the cable and linkage used in the 110.
Mine has a D1 lever aswell, mounted up next to the drivers seat. I have to make a narrower centre console, but thats no big loss.
JC
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						Yes the Ritter one I had bolted right through with a nut on the front. Had little spacers between each set of bearings too.
Had mine done at McNamara's about 10 years ago. Not a problem since.
It just fitted back in without the box removed for mods.
Pete.
 LT95 shims or spacers
 LT95 shims or spacers
		While we're talking TRB's, has anyone seen these on the mil-spec (Maxi-D) TRB setup? Not having these, allows the inner part of each bearing to rotate on the shaft causing wear. These bearings have to sit at exactly the right place on the shaft, otherwise continual adjustment is then required to 'keep everything tight'. These shims or spacers must also allow lubrication of the intermediate shaft.
So...by the above post the Ritters units have these spacers? Are they available from anyone as a spare part?
Dave, do the military use shims or spacers in their LT95's?
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