Thread: Aircon. That old chestnut

Just a thought on the retrofit type syetms we are discussing.

If we fit one of these in lieu of the original type system we can't achieve cabin pressurisation can we?

pete

From what I understand, in the "standard" type installation you won't pressurise the cabin because the unit is drawing air from within the cabin. I guess there would be a way to duct the intake to the outside meaning that you are adding more air to the cabin, thus pressurising it, but you would want to filter that air somehow, and the unit would be less effective because it's not cycling through the same air over and over. It has to constantly cool the warmer air from outside.

James.

Just a thought.

You could always pressurise the cabin by adding a second blower drawing filtered air from outside, either directly into the cabin or in some manner through the A/C evaporator.

The A/C unit could then continue to wholly or partially re-cycle the cabin air.

The blower could also be used to keep out dust on days you don't want the A/C running, and turned off when you don't want cold air drawn in from outside.

Diana

Thanks James and Di.

James. AFAIK you can select fresh or recirc on my County ac setup. The intake comes in through the lhs wingtop vent. I guess it somehow switches the flap to recirc and blocks off the outside air intake. I will have to have a look at the unit which is currently sitting on my garage floor. The filter issue is also an important one and I did wonder where that is fitted. I am in the commercial air cond industry and the biggest enemy of efficient systems is dust covering the heating and cooling coils.

Diana

Good point. I am sure the comp vehicles have a seperate system to pressurise the cabins. Not much scope to fit it onto the orig system as that area is pretty tight for space already As James says it would also need to be filtered.

Since I got back from a trip around SW NSW in the stinking heat my aircon is knackered. I'm not keen to get the standard one fixed again, it just cant handle proper hot days. I've gotta go back out in a few weeks so keen to do something to get it sorted.

Lots of technical chatter in here - does anyone have pics of these alternate set ups? I'm thinking of replacing the cubby box with a red-dot R6480, keeping the rest of the system standard landy. Any reason that wont work a zillion times better than the factory one in a 130 TD5?

Seems like my cubby box is just a place to collect crap anyway!

Cheers,

Adam

I'm looking at the below unit:

Universal Bus & Van Evaporator assembly- 32,220 btu | eBay

Remote control switch included.

36 pass 4 way alum coil
610 CFM
32,220 BTU
12 Volts
Left hand drive
O-Ring expansion valve
R134a or R12 compatible
33in x 14in x 7in
Mounting brackets included
Drain hose included

What does R134a and R12 refer to?

What is the required fan speed for a roof mounted unit?

What would thsi unit be mounted to in the roof?

The inside roof units mentioned consists of it's own evaporater so would one decommission the evaporator in the passenger footwell and extend teh two aircon pipes from there underneath the chassis and connect it to this unit? So will there be 2 aircon pipes and one water drainage pipe?

What BTU is required the 22,500 or the 9,000?

Do I need to upgrade any other parts?

Hmm
think 600 cfm might blow the windows out if drawing from outside....

gotta be better than the below dash lr supplied version.