Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 56

Thread: Tdi turbo hoses replaced - lack of power still exists. Help?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    Total Downloaded
    0
    That's probably fuel smoke. Does it only smoke when when it's cold? Is it at low revs/off idle or all of the time? Has you injector pump been played with?

    Also, when you pull your intercooler hoses off, check for oily residue.

  2. #22
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Posts
    16,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Will do.

    Yeah injector pump has been "tweaked" a fair while ago for extra power (ironic eh, but it did work for a while!). Smokes sometimes changing gears etc as a esult of thetweak, but nothing truly excessive to be concerned about.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hmmmm, well the injector pump settings shouldn't just "change" so like you suggested first, check the intercooler hoses.

    You could also cast your eye over the boost compensator and waste gate actuator hoses. Make sure they haven't detached, split, burnt through on the exhaust manifold, etc. This is more likely to cause loss of boost/higher end lack of power, and not specifically when cold, but worth a look while you're at it .


    James.

  4. #24
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Posts
    16,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    any diagram showing what ones those hoses are.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It's pretty easy to spot them. Start at the large 2 inch-ish steel tube between the turbo and the intercooler (your rubber hoses either end of it). On top of that there's a small hose (approx 1/4") coming off. Trace that to the T-piece. From here it splits, one going to the wastegate actuator underneath the exhaust manifold, and the other around the back of the block to the top of the injector pump. Check that all of those 1/4" hoses are connected, split free, etc, etc.


    James.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    TBA
    Posts
    2,328
    Total Downloaded
    0
    When were you tappet clearances last checked?

    I notice it when mine need adjusting. As you said low down torque is affected, especially when cold

    Most noticable was when I had a lash cap let go and one was way out

    The book says every 20,000km I do mine every 10,000

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    my hoses are no good, they made their way under something heavy and now have a cross section that might feed an RC nitro engine.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #28
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Posts
    16,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well I finally did the hoses. Wasn't too hard a job.... until I got to the bottom one. Talk about inacessible ! What a bugger of a thing to work on. Anyway finally got it done and problem with power is..., unchanged.

    Where to look next? I really want to get this fixed asap.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Samford
    Posts
    704
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So, let's just revisit the symptoms again - is it bottom end power, top end power, or just generally a "lack of power"? Are you making boost? You wouldn't happen to have a boost gauge fitted would you? Can you hear the turbo spooling up?

    You could check the function of the boost compensator in the injector pump. On top of the injector pump, where the small hose from the intercooler pipe attaches, there are four screws (could be allen head or flat blade). Undo them and very carefully lift the top. The diaphragm underneath may be slightly stuck to it, so don't pull it all of the way up, and don't rotate the top while it's attached to the diaphragm. You'll need to separate it carefully. I use a Stanley knife, but you have to be really, really careful not to score, or puncture the diphragm, or score the mating surfaces of the injector pump. As soon as you have the lid off, mark the position of the diaphragm in relation to the pump body with a pen. It rotates to change the amount of fuel delivered as boost changes. This is very critical in the tuning so mark it, and then preferably don't rotate it. Now push gently directly down on the metal centre. It has a spring under it so it should slide down and spring back up freely.

    Having said all of this, if you're not confident it's probably best that you don't do it. Trying to think what else to check . Did this suddenly start happening?


    James.

  10. #30
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Posts
    16,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rainman View Post
    So, let's just revisit the symptoms again - is it bottom end power, top end power, or just generally a "lack of power"? Are you making boost? You wouldn't happen to have a boost gauge fitted would you? Can you hear the turbo spooling up?
    Bottom end power definitely. When starting of from lights etc is sluggish but ESPECIALLY when on a hill its prone to stalling and I wonder whether there is some sort of fuel delivery problem.

    Top end power - its a Tdi there is none! Seriously though I'm unsure about this but its certainly not really noticeable as compared to low down.

    Making boost? Unsure what you mean there. No boost guage fitted, no.
    Turbo does (as far as I can tell) spool up but takes a while....

    You could check the function of the boost compensator in the injector pump. On top of the injector pump, where the small hose from the intercooler pipe attaches, there are four screws (could be allen head or flat blade). Undo them and very carefully lift the top. The diaphragm underneath may be slightly stuck to it, so don't pull it all of the way up, and don't rotate the top while it's attached to the diaphragm. You'll need to separate it carefully. I use a Stanley knife, but you have to be really, really careful not to score, or puncture the diphragm, or score the mating surfaces of the injector pump. As soon as you have the lid off, mark the position of the diaphragm in relation to the pump body with a pen. It rotates to change the amount of fuel delivered as boost changes. This is very critical in the tuning so mark it, and then preferably don't rotate it. Now push gently directly down on the metal centre. It has a spring under it so it should slide down and spring back up freely.

    Having said all of this, if you're not confident it's probably best that you don't do it. Trying to think what else to check . Did this suddenly start happening?


    James.
    Definitely not confident to tackle something like that myself.

    I honestly can;t say if it was sudden, just that its been happening for a long time now. LR mechanic I go to canlt seem to replicate the problem, but I suspect its just not finding an appropriate hill or something to try it on.

    Ideally someone with a good mechanical / LR knowledge needs to take it for a drive and they may well be able to put their finger on likely diagnoses, and also what is unlikely to be the cause.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!