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Thread: Smoking from behind instrument cluster.

  1. #1
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    Smoking from behind instrument cluster.

    Hi all,

    Just bought a Defender ute 6/93, went to start it up this morning and it started smoking/smoldering from behind the instrument cluster...

    I have started pulling it apart to find the fault but dont want to go to far without the workshop manual been looking online at pdf files but im unsure if it is a 200tdi or 300?
    Also its a single cab long wheel base so is it a 110 or 130?

    I dunno

    Its starts but will not continue to run after starter disengauges?

    Yours truly,

    Dave - confused new Landy owner...

    Refernce pic: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/introducti...ndy-owner.html
    Last edited by Davender; 14th January 2012 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Add an attachment take 2.

  2. #2
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    spotting tdi300V200 is usually fairly easy open the bonnet and look at the drive belt.

    If its got traditional V belts then its typically a tdi200 if its got a serpentine belt (multi rib jobbie) then its a tdi300. There are a few odd bod exceptions here and there but thats the general rule.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davender View Post
    it started smoking/smoldering from behind the instrument cluster...
    Its starts but will not continue to run after starter disengages?
    Hi Dave

    Blknight.aus has your info about the motor.

    Smoke means a wire or junction is carrying too much current, look at your earth strap between the chassis and the motor/transmission. Pull the joints apart where they are bolted and then giving them the Mother of all cleans, take them back to bare metal.
    When fitting back together grease the joint with some Vaseline, But do --- not --- repeat ---- not ----- , do not use silicon grease! .
    .

  4. #4
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    better than vaseline is proper contact grease or graphite grease.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    The problem so is with second hand landies, the previous owner may have do some wiring mods. DYIers can sometimes do some rough stuff.
    I've found some really bad dyi joins and cut off wires in my Disco recently.
    One of your wires might have rubbed on something and caused a smoke.

  6. #6
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    Cheers for the comments and advice guys I will sort the earth issue as advised...

    Now the plot thickens

    One of the vent cables must of been touching something as thats what was melting and was down to the steel outer cable, no plastic left on it, easy enough to sort out but putting things back together the plastic contact plug on the back of the ignition barrel will not stay in place just by the metal locating tabs after the engine starts so I now know why it starts but then stops...

    I can hold it in place and have tried every Maguyver bodge I can think of just so we can go play in the mud today but if I turn key off and try and restart it wont make contact again to fire the starter motor sooo im chasing a new ignition barrel, any thoughts on where to get one?
    Ive been on ebay already, prefer one in Perth if possible please...

  7. #7
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    theres a couple of different styles of ignition barrels over the years, Some are interchangable others are not.

    If you can upload a pic someone may have a second handy (ive got 5 different ones to suit my fleet)

    Other than that MR automotive in Redcliff QLD are my goto guys for parts.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    theres a couple of different styles of ignition barrels over the years, Some are interchangable others are not.

    If you can upload a pic someone may have a second handy (ive got 5 different ones to suit my fleet)

    Other than that MR automotive in Redcliff QLD are my goto guys for parts.

    Pics
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
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    The white plastic part is the main issue as it keeps seperating from the rest of the unit unless I hold it in place.

    The whole unit seems rather shagged because when turning the key to start the enigne the key sometimes doesnt turn back enough to disengauge the starter so I had to turn it back a bit by hand to stop the starter so my guess is its time for a new one or a better condition used unit?

  10. #10
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    Does anybody know what model the ignition barrel is interchangable with from the pics ive posted above?

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