I understood the type you were referring to. I think they are just a complication. If you are worried about urban myths then disconnect the winch cable from the battery terminal +ve, -ve or both!
Getting to the original topic; you were down on using the +ve terminal of the starter motor but you then suggest putting a cheap switch into play with two extra terminations plus the switching contacts of a $12 piece of plastic... These are all possible points of voltage drop and current arc (fire risk). Or in your words "If that cable joint became resistive, it would heat up very quickly "
It is technically safer to bolt the winch cable to the starter motor +ve terminal than incorporate such a device.
I dont really care what path Campbell takes BUT he will NOT have any problems with a properly terminated connection at the starter motor +ve post.
Peace
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Tell you what mate,
Send your 130 up on a truck, Ill take it lots of interesting places this year (got some good trips planned already), Ill treat it like it should be treated and take the purdy pikchas to prove it.
Ill send the photos in an envelope marked:
"Matts 2012 Vicarious Cape York Adventure"
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Before I sold my TDI 130 the winch was supplied from the starter terminal with good spec cable and connections and it worked without trouble and is still most likely working fine that way for its new owner today.
No just the suburban facts ! --- have you ever had a smoke bomb let off under your Land Rover by one of these types? and no rude comments like 'birds of a feather' thanks.
Yep, but use a switch rather than wrestle with the terminal clamps .then disconnect the winch cable from the battery terminal +ve, -ve or both!
My switch admittedly, is a good bit more robust than that example, sorry, I should have dragged another switch into play kicking and screaming .Getting to the original topic; you were down on using the +ve terminal of the starter motor but you then suggest putting a cheap switch into play with two extra terminations plus the switching contacts of a $12 piece of plastic...
Two heavy and stiff cables coming in to that terminal, coupled with the movement of the vibrating motor and the occasional jerk as the vehicle bumps over rough going, is not a case of if the joint will come loose but when.These are all possible points of voltage drop and current arc (fire risk). Or in your words "If that cable joint became resistive, it would heat up very quickly "
It is technically safer to bolt the winch cable to the starter motor +ve terminal than incorporate such a device.
until it properly comes loose!I dont really care what path Campbell takes BUT he will NOT have any problems with a properly terminated connection at the starter motor +ve post.
I know I finished my last post with 'peace' but this is just a little bit funny (not as funny as having to buy a 110 so the hounds can have air conditioning but funny none the less) AND I have had a few reds by now;
"Two heavy and stiff cables coming in to that terminal, coupled with the movement of the vibrating motor and the occasional jerk as the vehicle bumps over rough going, is not a case of if the joint will come loose but when."
ever seen a 200hp volvo AD40 marine at full stonk. 6 proper angry cylinders trying their hardest to rattle an entire hull to pieces... starter cables just seem to stay attached funnily enough despite the vibrations and running into "corrugations" a landy wouldn't even nightmare about.
CAMPBELL, IT ISNT GOING TO BE A PROBLEM - WIRE UP THE WINCH TO THE BACK OF THE CIGGIE SOCKET IF YOU HAVE TO... EITHER WAY JUST GET OUT AND USE IT.
Peace (and I think I mean it this time)
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
I tried some Brown Brothers Cienna tonight, might have to get another as I'm not sure yet. Cheers !
Can't say I have.ever seen a 200hp volvo AD40 marine at full stonk. 6 proper angry cylinders trying their hardest to rattle an entire hull to pieces... starter cables just seem to stay attached funnily enough despite the vibrations and running into "corrugations" a landy wouldn't even nightmare about.
we agree to disagree on this--- I thinkCAMPBELL, IT ISNT GOING TO BE A PROBLEM - WIRE UP THE WINCH TO THE BACK OF THE CIGGIE SOCKET IF YOU HAVE TO....
Amen .EITHER WAY JUST GET OUT AND USE IT.
Yep Peace besides it's nearly time for the insomniacs to start their meeting.Peace (and I think I mean it this time)
.
Its a winch - use it till the solenoids burn out or the motor shorts or the mud chews the planetaries. Rip it out put in a new one and then move on with life.
Its not meant to be complicated - The interwebs just trys to make us think it is normal to be complicated.
ps, nice choice of vino...
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
WOW!
A lot of mixed opinions there, thanks everyone..... I understand that it is obviously 'ideal' to have the active running directly to the battery with or without an isolator to reduce 'risk' of anything going wrong.
As far as having my active on the starter goes, has anyone actually burned their deefer from such a stunt?
I will obviously be checking the terminal regularly to ensure maximum conductivity and I've got 90 suspension on my puma 110 so vibration isn't such an issue
Cheers,
Campbell
I'm about to finally hook up the winch thats been hanging in the bullbar for the last 6 months...So interesting reading here.
I've read a number of times around the web this thing about people hooking up your winch to things (most often your own towbar) and cranking up the winch when you're not there. It smacks of a myth. Anyone have proof that this has ever happend in Australia?
Cheers,
Adam
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