Thread: Life of Puma Rear Diff's

what do you mean by 'shave', you could go from this

http://www.offroadcustomcreations.co...s/P1010018.JPG

to this

http://www.offroadcustomcreations.co...s/P1010008.JPG

and even more if you grind the crown wheel.

But why, Ive only ever been stuck on my Salisbury twice, just learn to drive a better path or ontop of the ruts instead of in them, or carry a hiLift jack, you can easily take away 1/2" on a Salisbury with a grinder & without resorting to above surgery so long as you use a heavy duty cover plate like an ARB nodular steel cover.

just grinding the flat bulldozer blade part off makes all the differance sometimes.



I could probably go an extra 5mm without too much trouble, but really - not an issue.



.

You can take 3/4" easily with only a 4" grinder and hacksaw + the HD cover. (a tin cover will leak, and peel back on the first thing you drag over)
With a 3/4" shave I re-located the bottom bolt as ground up to it and broke through. I made and screwed in a dummy stud, glued in using liquid metal to fill the original bolt hole)

BTW you can do this under the car without removing the housing as Jimbo did in the second thread below.

Grab some 262 Loctite to glue in the drain plug, and I like 518 Loctite to seal the new cover.

As you said, shorten and rebalance the tail shaft, install RTC 3511 hub seals, pull the axle tube seals, Hi-Tough Engineering axles and drive flanges (or equivalent) and you're set.

A couple of threads.
A Salisbury with a Brazilian.....

Jimbo110's budget Salisbury shave........

Rick has pretty much covered everything.

Just on the diff life feedback question, I haven't had a problem with my 2007 Puma, so I may be one of the lucky ones, and it is still fine with over 200,000kms on the vehicle.

I did a warranty complaint when it was near new, about the hand brake drum being out of round, so the dealers promptly replaced the rear diff, which was running perfectly, and left me with the dodgy hand brake drum. So this diff hasn't done 200,000km, but no reason to suspect it won't either.

Originally Posted by newhue

Hi guys, I've just secured myself a Salisbury out of a 130.
can you help me answer a few questions
How do I shave it? Can I do that?
what needs to be done to fit it onto a Tdci, is it just shorten the tail shaft.
And I would like to put a detroit in it and some HD axels. Besides some new rotors, bearings, and oil seals is there any thing else I should look at.

I have a 02 def110 with a sal, I put hy-tuff axles and a Detroit from lucky 8 about 2 years ago . The only difference is it can be a bit hoppy in a low speed off camber roundabout . Diff cover and shaving are on my to do list

if it hasnt already been said, most heavy duty, aftermarket covers are actually for a Dana 60. These bolt straight on. If they come supplied with bolts, you will have to replace them with metric. I got my cover from Great Lake offroad in the USA. It is fabbed from mild steel rather than cast. I went this way as if it ever has to be modded/repaired it will be much easier. BTW there is no reduction in strength.

Serge: I spied the cover you have on another thread, and have sent a pic of it to APT fabrication along with pics of Jimbo's budget shave. I think something can come together here with out a great deal of hassle. Kind of like the idea of a flat sliding plain on the bottom of a big beefy sals.

My P38 diff hasn't played up as yet, but it's about the only thing on my Tdci that hasn't. I have only done 60K, but built the car with some long remote trips in mind. The car is at GVM when we do this, and my work has me cart a decent load daily as well. It makes sense to me to replace a generally accepted average design with a tried and tested star. I figure with a remap that disables the EGR and the ignition immobiliser things should be become quite reliable overall.
I will be fitting Ashcroft shafts with the Detroit. Should I be replacing the carrier bearing and thrust washers. I have no idea what they do, just was told I probably should.

it will be interesting to see what you come up with . If you get the time check out GLO website. They were great to deal with. Mine has the best MIG welds I have ever seen. (real MIG, not MIG like TIG )