Thread: 130 tubed wheels / tubeless tyres?

Originally Posted by rick130

Diana, the current style 130 rim has an offset of 20.6mm positive.

...

Rick I am well aware about the differences between negative and positive offset.

While I ackowledged (above) that the measurement of the rims in question may be incorrect, the diagramme itself is not incorrect, and it is not an optical illusion because of the different shape of the centre pressing.

We may find that the current ANR5593 rim has a 20.6mm positive offset, however the early ones I am talking about have either a negative offset, which in consideration may be small or indeed or possibly neutral offset. They may even be 120 rims rather than 130 rims.

As I said, now I have to go and measure all the rims and re-do the diagramme.

BTW the series rims where outset/inset is mentioned, this information comes directly from the Land Rover OEM parts catalogues.

Diana



P.S. I can not rescind the photobucket image ATM because my employer has upgraded the browser on my machine and the Photobucket log in screen is filtered.

Diana, I wasn't trying to teach you to suck eggs, the diagram was more for those who don't know or get confused (me half the time)

When you say early, are you talking 127 early, or Tdi 130 early ?

Hi Rick

I'm not sure because I have seen and actually owned some of the early rims but not on the original vehicle. In fact three of them were fitted to my SIIB when purchased in Tasmania.

So I am tending to the belief that they may have been the 120 and very early 200TDi 127/130.

They are a trick because they look so similar to the SIIB 569203 rims, but have an offset closer to the 543384 SIIA F/C rims.

Diana, I'm not sure if you've seen JB's list at all or if it even adds to your info, but I only just found it today, having known of his manual gearbox oil and gearing charts for years.

Land Rover Wheel Specification

Originally Posted by rick130

Diana, I'm not sure if you've seen JB's list at all or if it even adds to your info, but I only just found it today, having known of his manual gearbox oil and gearing charts for years.

Land Rover Wheel Specification

No Rick, I hadn't seen it.

Just to give you the heads up on mine, the original version was designed by Mark Rumsay in the UK S2C forum and was only ever meant to deal with series rims. However his diagram was deficient in a number of places because of the variety of rims and the lack of clarity in the diagramme's design, some rim types don't seem to have survived in the UK or some he was unaware of, particularly the 543384 and the 272309. So I modified the diagramme and added the part numbers. Subsequently I added the 48 rim at which time I felt I could justify it as my edition.

It was only later when people were getting the early 130 rims and the Series forward control rims mixed up that I have started to add the Defender rims to the diagramme.

Notice in JB's table the 130 "wolf rims" in this weeks AULRO old markets are clearly shown ANR5593 don't appear. More than that it is very clear they are positive offset.

JB is also missing the late county 6" rims (as am I, but I'm not sure I care about 6" rims except the ROH aftermarket ones for my Haulmark trailer).

Getting back to The Couch's original question....

I have run 130 tube type rims with tubeless tyres for the last 200,000km.

I find punctures with tube type rims very easy to repair in the bush. As the bead is far easier to break than tubeless type rims - no need for bead breaker, tyre pliers etc. as they dont have the internal hump. Just lie the tyre flat, jump around the tyre close to the rim and by the second lap the bead is broken and the tyre flops down, turn it over and repeat. With good tyre levers, take the tyre off the back of the rim (outside facing down), remove puncture from tyre, put spare tube in, and repair punctured tube later.

As has been said the key is to buy quality tubes. Check the rim where the centre is riveted to the outer for rust/roughness. Never had a problem with tubes rubbing through on the ribbed inner surface of the tubeless tyre. I cover the tube in baby powder to stop folds etc. 1st set of BFG Mud terrains 235/85R16 did 125,000km without a puncture or leak. This included plenty of off highway driving such as flinder ranges, the cape, gibb river rd etc.

The next set have not done so well with the tyre guys mounting them without tubes first, then failing to remove the quality control stickers from the inside of the tyre which perished the tubes in a neat little patches- not happy about that as each one went down in turn over a year. Some tyres had 3 stickers. Driving through Mongolia/Russia we had 8 punctures (wire and nails), can't say if we would have gotten any less with a tubless rims and tyres, but it stopped being entertaining, especially with a hand pump - taking 729 pumps to get 35psi!

I find that tyres with tubes tend to go down faster when punctured than tubless type rims and tyres. I think this is a good thing as you become aware of the problem quicker and dont tend to overheat and ruin a tyre that is slowly going down.

I have regularly run low pressures on the beach, desert etc with no problems of tyres rolling off rims etc, but I drive accordingly when running the low presures.

Oh, and while not wanting to start another endless debate. Don't bother with the second spare. Save your money, weight and space. Drive to the conditions and adjust tyre pressures accordingly. Carry the tools to repair the tyres you have, spare tubes and large patches, and pay attention to how the car is driving. At first hint of a tyre going down stop and check it out. Always worked for me.

Hope some of this helps you out,
Alan

I have a mix of ANR 5593 and ANR 4583 which are identical except for the safety bead on the 4583's.

What's the # of rim you posted here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/876522-post5.html ?
Is it ANR 1534 ?



As that's the early style 130 rim I was talking about a little further back.
The centre drop is a lot further inboard than the later HD rims which give the impression (to me) of a wider offset.

[edit] everytime I see that face peering back at me I crack up

I thought it was the one I had outside, but unfortunately that one is an Aussie ROH 6" type, similar to those on the Haulmark with the raised ridge over the PCD. They are AYG8108. .

So the rims in the image were in transit down to Gippsland and I no longer have them, however from other images the number looks like the 5.5" NRC7578 type from the County. It definately starts NRC7 and ending in 78 so I'm happy to accept NRC7578.

Oops I just noticed the last line and realised it IS one of the early rims, that is likely one of the rims I bought from Anthony Johnson British 4WD Imports, who, like me got confused about it being a 569203 SIIB rim. They got sold to someone building a Pretendie.

Pugs sure are cute aren't they. (Theres one giving my foot a bath at the moment! )

I'm now on a quest to find the rest of the image sequence.