Thread: Puma 130 driveline vibration

I've had the same problem in my 110 - what was the price delivered for your propshaft if you don't mind me asking?

Shaft is multiple double cardan joint [double universals at each end] Also 3.5 inch diammeter tube as opposed 2.75inch original. I doubt you would need this on a 110 and would reduce cost by approx $100. Aussie dollar is slighlty higher than US dollar at present.
Cost $629 US plus $340 US delivered to my rural address.
In Oz I was quoted $800 for each double cardan joint making $1600 plus cost other materials plus labour. Then for me to travel to Melbourne and back twice would have cost half of the $340 in fuel alone. Other slower delivery methods would cost less. Mine arrived in 9 days from date of order.
To verify if this would be a fix: remove rear shaft, engage centre diff lock, and drive on front shaft only. I did not think this problem applied to the 110, only the 130.
Cheers.

Why a double DC on the rear of a 130 ??

The angles are less than a 110 ?

It sounds like the rear pinion angle is out of whack.

Woah way over kill for a rear of a 130! i am looking at doing mine too, but only uni to uni, the standard rover shafts are absolute garbage, after the issues i had with my front one from new, i couldnt beleive it was binding on the standard LR heavy duty suspension! and after reading everyone elses posts here regarding similar issues, i couldnt beleive LR's responce of "its a defender they all do that" its really just poor workmanship and poor after sales service on there part.

With my new custom front shaft all my binding issues have gone, now i only have a slight vibration under load up hill at about 100-120kph in 5th or 6th gear and i have no doubt its due to the rear shaft, i checked it over when i was playing with the front, they are pretty poorly made sound about as thick as an old tin can, i can imagine they wouldnt take much to bend or twist. I will be going a heavy duty
one as well, but i have no choice as i plan on putting a Salisbury diff under the back of it in the next few months.

It would have been good for a proper engineer or old school mechanic, as opposed to Stealership hacks to have a look at the problem from first principals.Having previously run an 88'' wheelbase vehicle with Salisbury diff and raised suspension, I will never be convinced that a 130 with its long rear propshaft would require even one Double Cardan joint , never mind one at each end.
At any rate, whilst the UJs on a DC joint may be getting an easier time, it's the equalising ball and socket between the unis that has to work hard, and unless regularly serviced, depending on angularity of shaft generally have a shorter working life than a properly set up conventional propshaft arrangement.
Bill.

There was 3.5 degrees between shaft and rear pinion. Also 2.5 degrees at transmiission and diff in horizontal plane, that is diff and transmission not in line. Also vertical angles change with every change of load in the vehicle. Maybe this is why vibe worse when towing or carrying a load. This is why rear shaft universals are supplied from factory out of phase like the front.
I wanted a one stop fix as living in the country any experimentation would involve much time and expense in travel. No more vibration - I'm happy. Cheers

The rear uni's are in phase on a Tdi with R380 and Sals diff.
Never had a vibration problem from the rear shaft either.

Hello all. To throw a completely different angle on this one, I two have a 130 that had a vibrating tail shaft. It now has 70mm lift on the nose and 40mm on the tail. Running 285's underneath it, the original high speed vibration has gone and a new low speed (40kmh) front prop vibration has arrived! Not worried tho as it's only small. Shortening the rear radius arms (5mm ish) by doctering the bushes, will bring the diff nose up by enough to put it in line with the gearbox, and IMO I don't think it's enough to starve the nose of oil.... Good luck!