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Thread: Defender Engine Bay Heat - LH guard vent

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    D

    vents cut in side of guard definitly work, left being ideal as it is turbo side.

    the rotation of the air from the fan only makes it worthwhile putting vents on the left side, even if the turbo is on the drivers side.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    the rotation of the air from the fan only makes it worthwhile putting vents on the left side, even if the turbo is on the drivers side.

    Air is discharged from an axial fan @ 360*, (and at a tangent, not directly behind, unless ducted)
    Exhausting it can be done in any low pressure region, it doesn't matter a jot which direction the fan rotates

  3. #33
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    @Rick, yes I do remember them , I was jumping to D thinking you'd pick up A, B and C...but forgetting others here wouldnt be on the same page. In my mind more cold air is possibly going in that top opening, but that will work on mine as now I have an exhast vent.

    @goinbush, the big problem with the LR engine bay, especially 300Tdi's is that it is so croweded, ontop of which you have a stacked set of radiators. Air can only move through an area if it has an entry and exit. These have to be matched somewhat. The electric fan on the outside of the A/C condensor is there not only for the A/C but for the engine heat. At speed on the HWY where you would think plenty of air pressure and flow, the air actually dams up inside the engine bay. The Viscous fan not enough to draw it through as there isnt enough exit.

    Now I dont have the teck re fans that Rick does, but IMO I cant see the rotation of the fan moving the hot air on the turbo side around the engine and out a vent as efficently as it just passing out a vent on the same side of turbo, pressureisd by forward movement.

    Basicly all I have done by cutting the vent is allow the engine bay to have more clean air move through it, taking it off the hotest side. This also helps the airflow through the RAD.

    just my opinion (fact may be missing)

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nera Donna View Post
    Not on a Puma
    righto, either way dont be shy. If you were closer Id be happy to cut for you.

  5. #35
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    So I just got around to finishing my vent off, although I do need to pull it off and paint the mesh (if it ever stops raining here).

    I had a piece of security (Crimsafe type) mesh lying around so cut it to basic shape. With Serg's "extra reinforcement" in the back of my mind, and figuring I wasn't going to have much luck putting Nutserts into the mesh, I cut a surround out of some aluminium sheet and installed the M4 aluminium Nutserts. The mesh is sandwiched between the surround and the guard. Total cost - $2.00 for the bolts (I already had everything else)!







    Massive thanks to Serg for the inspiration and to everyone for their never ending knowledge. I love this forum .

    James.

  6. #36
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    i wonder if removing the rubber gasket on the firewall that the bonnet seals on would achieve much, sure bet it would let hot air into the cabin if you opened the vents.

  7. #37
    redrovertdi Guest
    Ive never had that rubber seal so maybe i should get one...

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    i wonder if removing the rubber gasket on the firewall that the bonnet seals on would achieve much, sure bet it would let hot air into the cabin if you opened the vents.


    The base of the windscreen is a high pressure area.

    All removing the gasket does (or lifting the trailing edge on a conventional bonnet) is allow the air above to flow back down into the engine bay.

  9. #39
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    Removing that seal will also increase engine noise a lot. But i have an isuzu so YMMV.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  10. #40
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    Install a bilge blower 4" 235 CFM $50 from Whitworths

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